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firing pin hardened?
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Was working on a Hercules (Montgomery Ward) top break single shot shotgun and discovered the firing pin was broken. The existing parts feel like cold roll to the file. Should an old shotgun firing pin be hardened or has this one previously been replaced. Was thinking about making one from a grade 8 bolt. Thoughts.

Thanks and God Bless, Louis
 
Posts: 1381 | Location: Mountains of North Carolina | Registered: 14 January 2008Reply With Quote
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We made old firing pins from 1018 cold roll and case harden it usually that was the way most were original made.
 
Posts: 965 | Location: Texas | Registered: 19 May 2004Reply With Quote
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youngoutdoors,

Like Les says, you could make the replacement out of 1018 cold rolled, and then case-harden it. Even without a furnace, you can use a torch and Kasenit. It'd be was easier than trying to cut down a grade 8 bolt to fit. Plus the bolt may also be case-hardened instead of through-hardened, so once you cut through the hardened outer part of the bolt, you'd still need to re-harden.
 
Posts: 1734 | Location: Maryland | Registered: 17 January 2004Reply With Quote
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Good grade 8 bolts will generally make excellent firing pins for those old guns. They are tough material in medium carbon alloy steel between 34 and 40 Rc. You can turn them with HSS if you keep the speeds down and use oil as you cut. Don't let things get hot and there is no need to re-heat treat. Remember to polish them to about #400 so they don't drag in the port.


When I was a kid. I had the stick. I had the rock. And I had the mud puddle. I am as adept with them today, as I was back then. Lets see today's kids say that about their IPods, IPads and XBoxes in 45 years!
Rod Henrickson
 
Posts: 2542 | Location: Edmonton, Alberta Canada | Registered: 05 June 2005Reply With Quote
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Thanks guys. I'll probably try the bolt first and see what happens. I've had mixed success with hardening steel with a torch. Used to do that quite a bit; I think I do have some tool steel in the toolbox but not sure which grade. I'll study on it a little more.

God Bless, Louis
 
Posts: 1381 | Location: Mountains of North Carolina | Registered: 14 January 2008Reply With Quote
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I made a pair out of a round file took the hardest out of it.

Turned them out and then reheat treaded and temper them worked well.
 
Posts: 19736 | Location: wis | Registered: 21 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by p dog shooter:
I made a pair out of a round file took the hardest out of it.

Turned them out and then reheat treaded and temper them worked well.

coffee
When I get a high grade gun and someone is willing to pay, the best ones I have ever made were made from high grade punches. I just put them in the Cuttermaster grinder and spin grind them to size with boron or diamond wheels. You can also do them in a universal grinder with a spinner. If the steel will take a hellish beating with a big hammer, you will have little doubt about it taking a little beating with a little hammer. There is also no doubt as to the quality of the steel and the heat treatment that way. We used to use a tool post grinder in an old Myford lathe in one shop I worked in.


When I was a kid. I had the stick. I had the rock. And I had the mud puddle. I am as adept with them today, as I was back then. Lets see today's kids say that about their IPods, IPads and XBoxes in 45 years!
Rod Henrickson
 
Posts: 2542 | Location: Edmonton, Alberta Canada | Registered: 05 June 2005Reply With Quote
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I used to make firing pins out of S7 tool steel, and heat treat them. S7 is a chisel grade steel.

Dave
 
Posts: 2086 | Location: Seattle Washington, USA | Registered: 19 January 2004Reply With Quote
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