Gang,

Who knows the correct procedure for the disassembly of a Colt-Python's Ejector Rod?

I was only able to remove the knurled knob on the end of it. And when I secured the rod, it wouldn't budge in either direction, so I left well enough alone for the moment.

Oddly, the Numrich catalog (No. 24 Pg. 110) does not show the knurled knob as a separate component but rather as part of the rod. If I only knew how this subassembly is threaded into the Ejector Stem. But if it helps, the series is E3xxxx (x�s being fillers); .357 Mag CTG.

Any info would be appreciated. Thanks in advance...

Alex---

The rod screws into the extractor spider with LEFT hand threads.

*Tighten* the knurled nut to remove the rod.

You better pay CLOSE attention to the position of the bushing and spring inside.

To remove the whole crane and cylinder remove the front screw in the right hand side. The screw is hollow and has a spring and detent behind it.

Thanks JBelk,

You have confirmed my suspicion on the rod being a left-handed threaded component.

I am a bit frustrated however because I am still unable to 'break' the rod free of the Extractor Stem for fear of breaking the threaded portion of the rod at the weak point of the threading.

How much torque could this thin little rod bear?

This unit came to me with considerable cosmetically pitted corrosion (and eating away at a single chamber on the outside of the cylinder) as well as the barrel.

Would penetrating oil (i.e. Liquid Wrench) be appropriate to use prior to reengaging?

The purpose in requiring disassembly is to facilitate the process of me buffing that particular surface prior to cold rebluing in the arresting or all remaining corrosion.

TIA...

Alex,

Get Jerry Kuhnhausen's book on the older Colts!

Recono

Alex,

I've not seen one with a seperate knurled knob on the end however, take a set of wooden blocks and with a small round file, make a small groove lengthwise.

Push the ejector rod to expose the cylider ratchets shank and with a low flame of a propane torch, slightly warm the shank to the touch. Too much heat will damage the springs inside the cyliner. Once the ratchet is warm enough, let the ratchet go and place the headless ejector rod in the groove of the blocks and in a vise. Place an empty case in every other chamber for support and turn the cylinder counter clockwise to break it loose.

You may need to apply a good penetrating oil, but I would try the heat first...

Good luck,

Malm