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Oxygen as a rust blueing accelerant?
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We have used heated "sweat boxes" for years to accelerate the rusting process, but has anyone ever added oxygen to a sealed sweatbox to hasten the process? Oxygen makes up 21% of the atmosphere, so if I quadruple that concentration in the sweatbox would I cut rusting time by 75%? I'm thinking of using one of those long, plastic storage containers with an airtight top, then adding a saturated sponge, treated gunmetal and finally a good blast of oxygen from my welding tank before sealing the lid. This container will then be placed outside in full sunlight to get free heat. If it works I should easily be able to get 6 passes a day and drastically cut blueing time.
 
Posts: 3872 | Location: SC,USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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I had never thought of that, but I have toyed with the ideas of adding hydrogen peroxide to the boiling bath, to increase the O- ion concentration, as well as lightly "pre-etching" the metal with naval jelly, to allow it to get a nice even iron oxide (red rust) coating prior to boiling. I was thinking that the latter would decrease the number of passes you would need to get a good rust blue, while the peroxide would give you a better final finish.

Todd
 
Posts: 1248 | Location: North Carolina | Registered: 14 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Bobster,

Increasing the oxygen in a box like that could very well start an extreme (though short) fire. Oxygen is something to be careful around.
 
Posts: 1844 | Location: Southwest Alaska | Registered: 28 February 2001Reply With Quote
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I would say ozone, using one of those electrostatic machines found in health store to continuously transform oxygen into ozone. With ozone, there's no need to boost oxygen content in air, besides, ozone is a much stronger oxidizer than plain oxygen.
 
Posts: 638 | Location: O Canada! | Registered: 21 December 2001Reply With Quote
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and nascant(sp) oxygen is even worse... for a reason... roger knows..

But, remember rust is oxidation, and, in effect, fire.. with enough o2, it will be a flame...

use the hot water method, me thinks
jeffe
 
Posts: 40229 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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DOH!

I do not know how I managed to goof like that, I didn't read far enough...plastic. Ok.

Bobster, May I respectfully suggest (after my way too soon comment) that you try a test. Prepare two pieces of steel exactly alike (barrel stubs or something) and test them, one with oxy and one without.
 
Posts: 1844 | Location: Southwest Alaska | Registered: 28 February 2001Reply With Quote
<JBelk>
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Bobster---

I tried it in 1981 at my shop which was at 8050 foot altitude in the Colorado rockies.....it DID work faster, but I had a terrible pitting problem and discarded the idea.

If you sit a sealed container in the sun with a wet sponge you'll almost immediately get WAY too much heat and the water will condense on the metal and the box. That'll ruin the job in a few minutes.

I use a pexiglass box with a 25 watt bulb mounted in one end. A wet paper towel supplies the moisture, the bulb the heat, but I usually have to prop one end of the lid up to keep away condensation.

The arsenals and the factories used a "steam box", but every account I've read says the steam was a one-shot thing only to add water and heat.

If you want 6 coats a day use Belgium Blue or Mark Lee Express Blue. They work very well.

The best rust blue is slow to act.....that's why most custom makers dilute the chemicals some to slow it down. It seems to give a finer finish.
 
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Thanks Jack, you saved me a lot of grief. I'll order some of the Belgian Blue. The plexi sweatbox sounds like a good deal. I have a friend who constructs plexi displays for industry. Maybe he can build one for me with a slanted lid. I might add a vent at the top to release excess moisture as you suggested.
 
Posts: 3872 | Location: SC,USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
<G.Malmborg>
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quote:
Originally posted by Bobster:
I'm thinking of using one of those long, plastic storage containers with an airtight top, then adding a saturated sponge, treated gunmetal and finally a good blast of oxygen from my welding tank before sealing the lid. This container will then be placed outside in full sunlight to get free heat.

Becareful, you might get more heat than you bargained for.

A word of caution. Pure oxygen is potentially explosive when introduced into an environment that is not oxygen friendly or serviced for pure O2 use.

I teach mixed gas diving, and ANY concentration of O2 above 21% requires special handling. O2 concentrations higher than 40 percent require dedicated equipment which utilize special O2 compatible lubricants and seals, and have been specially cleaned of ALL trace elements of hydrocarbon materials, oils, and greases, and anything which would be explosive in the presence of pure O2. Before proceeding, you might want to make sure that every chemical and material you will use is O2 compatible including the housing.

Good luck,

Malm
 
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