What is the proper way to adjust a double set trigger of the type found on Oberndorf Mauser sporters? Do I adjust until the tront trigger fails to cock and then back off, or is there some other technique? Is there some way of removing creep from the set trigger?

I havn't played with one for some time. But if memory serves there really is no weight adjustment on the set trigger. Just engagement. Most guys make sure that the sear surfaces are smooth and then set them so that when the trigger is set, it won't magically unset while releasing the front trigger or going off during mild abuse. Setting the trigger up generally simply increases travel. Setting it down decreases it. Some fancy ones may also have weight adjustments but if they do, I don't recall it. I only see one every other year or so.

Installed on on a mauser last month, and have done many DSTs on flintlocks. You adjust them wherever you like them to be as long as they will stay set; you never set them until you are totally ready to shoot; never carry one set. They are not adjustable for weight that I have seen.
I have missed a deer using set triggers; they are usually a bad idea for a hunting rifle which is why Mausers destined for US import did not have them. You have much more control with a single trigger of 3 pounds. I forgot about the caribou I hit in the spine by accident using a set trigger on a Sharps 45-70. Of course with Black Powder; vintage calibers should not be fired with smokeless; ain't right. Meant to hit the heart lung area but dropped it anyway by accident as I was bringing the rifle down into the chest area. Set triggers are hard to use in the field. Of course, I set them to one ounce and .002 engagement. Literally a Hair trigger.
Some way of removing creep? That is what the adjustment screw does; remove creep. You can sometimes adjust the pull a but by bending the front trigger spring but there is no screw adjustment for weight. There is no real weight anyway.

Thanks for your very helpful information. I screwed the adjustment screw in until the set trigger failed to engage, then backed it out until I detected creep and very cautiously screwed it back in until the creep disappeared.

I have been using Mausers with set triggers for so long that I have trouble adjusting to rifles without them. Yesterday I was shooting an FN actioned rifle with a commercial direct pull trigger and forgot I was not using a set trigger, with the result that the first shot was badly out of the group. I must remember to dry fire a few times every time I change rifles.

This is the rifle in question, an early Sauer & Sohn, built on a transitional small ring action, Mauser serial number 2076, Sauer serial number 89640, making it one of the very earliest 98 sporting rifles, since the first 2000 transitional models were furnished to the German military prior to adoption. It is fitted with a half round, half octagon barrel with full length integral rib. The Redfield Jr. mount and the Lyman Alaskan scope were already fitted. The caliber is 8X57J.

I won it at an auction last spring in which I was the only bidder on that particular rifle.

The stock has been recently refinished by Lon Paul.

I had it on the range yesterday in anticipation of the opening of deer season this coming Saturday. The last three shots I fired were in the 2" "10" ring of the 100 yard smallbore target. Two of the three were in the 1" "X" ring. The 2 1/2X scope with post and crosshair reticle does not lend itself well to precision aiming, but I find it unbeatable in the hunting field.

[image]http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee504/xausa/Sauer%20Transition%20Model/Sauer%20Transition%20Model%20002_zps38dasdzr.jpg[/image]

[image]http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee504/xausa/Sauer%20Transition%20Model/7f365f11-c744-4cc6-ac70-ede33eb9c1ca_zps95xnju18.jpg[/image]

Yes on the range hair triggers are easy to use; in the field, they are very difficult as you have to learn to jerk the trigger; something we are taught not to do. You can't place your finger anywhere near the trigger for a "squeeze" whilst acquiring a target. Like I learned the hard way.
Train as you fight.

quote:

You have much more control with a single trigger of 3 pounds

After shooting over a couple head of game with two lite of trigger pull. All my big game rifle are set to at least 3 to 4 lbs.

My savage 99 has a 5 lb pull my kids say it is a death ray on running deer in my hands.

I have no trouble hunting with set triggers. If I'm hurried I simply fire it without the set. If I have time I will set them and shoot them like any varmint or BR rifle. I normally set them between 2 and 8 ounces and after setting, I set my finger almost on the side of the trigger and creep around the front of them until they fire. But I have hunted a LOT with double shotguns with double triggers and unmatched bores so deciding which trigger I want is almost subconscious and instantaneous to me.

One thing that I don't like about them is the tendency for them to jump high or low when the kicker lets off. I have noticed it on most of my set trigger guns and most people never realize it until they get one with a 24 power or greater scope and play with it like a bench rest gun. Even my CZ 453, which has a fairly light kicker prints two distinct 3/4 inch groups at 100 yards. The one group is always 1/8th to 1/4 inch lower with the set trigger. During dry firing I can actually see the cross wires jump down when the sear breaks. Without the set I see only a vibration in the wires. I have never tested it without the 2 pound counterweight on the receiver, but I expect it would be a lot worse.

CZ 453 by Rod Henrickson, on Flickr