Why is the reciever's inner barrel stop wall is needed? Why can't the barrel stop on the outside shoulder against the front of the reciever? Please enlighten me about this thing. Thanks in advance for your info.

On the small diameter LR turks, the barrel is definately threaded against the inner C-ring. However on my vz24 it looks like the barrel stops against the out side of the ring.

When I rebarrel my vz24, I will true up(square off) the front of the reciever and have the barrel stop against it there, on the outer ring. The breach of the barrel will be spaced .005 thousands off the inner C-ring.

I believe the C-ring is added structural of mauser's design. It is more difficult to leave it in there, then to machine the receiver strait thru.

Kristofer

[ 10-30-2002, 07:03: Message edited by: KBGuns ]

Because the inner ring acts exactly as the cone breech on a Springfield and M-70 does. Its a gas seal, and deflector.



The inner ring is a primary part of the M-98 design. All Military M-98s only bear on the inner ring. European sporting rifle sometimes use the front of the receiver and sometimes the inner ring.
Cheap sporters bear only on the outside face and good quality custom jobs are cut to bear evenly on both surfaces. It's VERY seldom you find an early M-98 with crooked or out of square face but it's good to skim the receiver end to flatten it for the barrel butt.

The INNER ring is designed to act as the PRIMARY torque shoulder on the 1898 Mauser. The OUTER ring acts as the SECONDARY torque shoulder. When measuring the distance from the SQUARED receiver face to the PRIMARY torque shoulder (or inner collar/ring as it is sometimes called) say you come up with .630 as the measurement. Machine the barrel shank length to .630 + .0005 to .001 longer so that the main torque force is applied to that inner shoulder & not the receiver face when the barrel is torqued down. This is the way Paul Mauser designed it to fit.

Thanks Kristofer, Jack, and Doug for the insight. I suppose that the inner ring must be a good thing. I was thinking maybe if the inner ring is eliminated, the barrel can be brought back in the event that there is a setback problem with the lugs.

Hi Jack,

If you were to design your own Mauser action, what would you change? Would you still leave the inner ring in there to serve as a tightening shoulder. Many thanks.

Mingo---

There's nothing but tolorences that I'd change about tne M-98. I'd make the whole 1935 catalog just like they were but with half the running tolorence between bolt body and receiver.

The inner ring is the deflector for escaping gas as well as the embuttment for the barrel. There's something poetic about the barrel and action joining exactly at the action screw. There's no reason to cut the ring out but you could. The barrel shank would have to be recessed like a Remington but with an extractor cut like a Model 70.

It sounds like replacing your truck frame with one made of 2x4s to me!! A LOT of work with absolutely no reason or excuse for doing so.

To correct headspace (without sights) measure the excess headspace, face that much, less .001 for crush, off the face and shoulder. Bingo!

I measure everything to make sure it's square, check lug contact, and inspect it inside and out including hanging it by a paper clip and ringing it like a bell. Cracked actions (mostly P-17s and pre-war M-54/70s) sound like a sack of nickles. If it needs work to make it right that's the time to do it.

Most re-headspacing is done by by cutting the barrel back by one pitch and rechambering the difference.

Thanks Jack for the quick reply. No, I am not trying to remove the inner barrel wall in any of my rifles. I am trying to study different features of a typical Mauser style bolt rifle in hope to be able to make my own action one day in the future. Your insight here is greatly appreciated.