I typicaly use the release agent that come with Acraglass, but have used floor wax once if I remember correctly, but something in the back of my mind tells me I had trouble getting the action out of the stock with wax, but can't remember.

Quesiton is, what are release agents made up of, I sometimes use industrial expoxy's etc, and do not always have release agent on hand. Is there a subsitute or can I make my own. I'm just a hobbiest so I do not always have everything I need at hand.

the best method I know of (in 34 years of gunsmithing) is to put on a coat of Brownell's releace agant, and let it dry, then put Johnson's floor wax over the top of it.

Works like a charm

Billy,
I've used the release agent for yours, and just switched to acrarelease.. and I ain't going back..

jeffe

Definitely, the Brownells spray-on release, don't remember the exact name.

Who uses PAM cooking spray? I have heard more than one person mention this.

I use Brownell's release agent. I brush on (with a flux brush) a coat, let it dry then brush on another coat. Never had a problem in 30+ years. Don't know what its made of, but it works with no problems.

Glen71,
The sprayon release agent in Brownells was "developed" by Bill McGuire. Bill is a very inovative guy, he was also a partner in DemBart checkering tools and helped develop their electric cutter. He is in his late 70's now and does not do much gun work but he used to be the Eddie Bauer gunsmith/stockmaker when Eddie Bauer was an actual sporting goods store in Seattle.

Anyway back to the spray on release agent. It is a cooking spray like PAM. Pure and simple.

I use Carnuba floor wax, two coats, dont buff or rub off. I do not use the acraglass stuff not because it isnt any good, it just dries out in the jar too easily and I am always left looking for something to use. One of the one pound cans of Trewax will last you the rest of your life.

I use a very thin coating of Imperial sizing wax.
That will not allow rough surfaces to release.
So I machine some surfaces.

Trying without the freezer trick could cause some pieces of the epoxy to stick to the steel and not the wood, so I always do the freezer trick.

I have used Johnson wax for years, and shoe wax also..they both work fine...I have seen guns stick with Pam btw...The release agents from Brownells work fine...

When a gun sticks, 99% of the time it is in the application of the release agent or human related!!

I use Hornady One Shot Case Lube. I find that the release agent that Brownells supplies is difficult to clean off the metal parts. It does do a good job to keep the action from sticking. Pam can penetrate the stock wood, and it becomes the devil to clean up. The Hornady case lube is an aerosol, easy to apply, and fast to dry. I use two coats just to be careful. I have never had a problem with either Accraglas or Accraglas Gel using One Shot.

Clemson

Johnson's floor wax. Its always worked well for me.

once it is fully cured you set it in a freezer. overnight if you wish. causes the metal to shrink just enough that is you have a tough spot it will usually pop out anyway. if it wasn't frozen you could end up with a few chunks of bedding sticking to your rifle...................
i tried the pam and destroyed a TI stock. i am not saying it doesn't work, just didn't work for me.
woofer

I tried paste boat wax last time, with excellent results. After smoothing rough spots on the lug to prevent locking, I apply a generous coat to all surfaces, buff off, repeat application, and only buff off where I want close fitting surfaces (rear of lug and bottom of action). The thick coat filled small voids in the metal, and even screw holes very well, allowing easy removal after curing. YMMV!

The last stock I bedded was my son's Mauser. I used the wax that came with the bedding kit, but it was on the dry side, so I put a heavy, and I mean HEAVY, coat of PAM cooking spray over the top of it. There was PAM dripping all over the place.

Well, to make a long story short, that rifle STUCK and stuck hard. No matter what I tried, I couldn't get it apart. Then, I put it in the freezer overnight. Nada. Still stuck big time.

So, I left it in the freezer for 10 days. After the long deep freeze, I took it out, put a screwdriver in the chamber, and pulled the screwdrive and the stock apart as hard as I could. Finally, it popped apart. As near as I could see, there were some very tiny machining marks on the bottom of the barrel, near the lug. I figure the glass got a hold on that and that is why it stuck. Of course, the fact I had a lot of wax on it and all the dripping PAM sort of voids that explanation. Kinda scary, really.

I won't use PAM again, that is for sure. But, there were some good ideas mentioned here, so I will try some of those next time.

Thanks for the tips!

RobertD

Guess what I use. Genuine "Mold Release", been using it for at least 90 years with out a problem.... well maybe 25. Search the web for it. Many types available. I use floor wax on floors and Pam when I fry eggs and I don't put mold release in the pan because it is not the same stuff and it makes the eggs taste funny. I also use a hammer to insert nails, because it works the best.

Used correctly, and it doesn't have to be thick, johnson's paste wax, minwax, trewax etc always works. 0000 steel wool removes it quickley when you're done. Tape the recoil lug on bottom, front and sides and it'll come right out. Clay every spot it can mechanically lock, especially if you're a sloppy bedder.

Pam works fine but if you are too liberal with it it can soak into the wood and really oil it up.

What I like to use is the Johnson wax in the yellow can applied with a cheap, unused, one inch paint brush. For the hard to reach areas, a q-tip works better. Clean up is a snap, too. It is definately important to "paint" well, and don't be afraid to rub it into the stock with your hands.