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one of us |
Hi all, How does one remove the extractor collar that holds the extractor on the Mauser bolt? The reason I ask is that I've half heartedly tried in the past but there seems to much resistance. And, I just welded a new bolt handle on my bolt and the collar seemed to have a lot less spring than usual and came right off. Now I used a heatsink and heat control paste and thought I kept the temps down but I'm concerned that I might have annealed/untempered this spring. I want to remove the collar from any more bolt before welding on a new handle. Do you all remove the collar before welding? Thanks, Mike | ||
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one of us |
I have sporterized and rebarreled 4 Mausers to the point of shooting. I bend the bolts on Mausers and TIG weld new bolt handles on 91/30 Mosin Nagants. The extractor is removed by prying radially out on the sharp extractor hook, and while it is pryed up, push longitudially on the etractor toward the front. That is the easy part. Getting it back on on takes a second too, if you are good. More likely is 5 minutes of swearing to get it back on. One could practice for an hour and then show off in front of freinds My advice is to never take the extractor ring off. You can get them off, and back on, but they don't fit like they did before. The extractor will keep the ring tight, so you could, but I wouldn't. | |||
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<JBelk> |
z1r--- The extractor collar is dead soft. Just spread it apart and take it off. The extractor is a spring. The collar is soft. | ||
one of us |
Hi Z1R,,,It sounds like you have had the extactor off more than once,but never the collar.How did you weld the handle? Did the collar "spring" after you welded the handle on? | |||
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one of us |
JBelk, Thanks for making me feel better. I was worried there for a moment. Claybuster, Getting the extractor off is usually not a problem. I'm not quite sure what you mean by did it "spring" but I can tell you it seemed to come off relatively easy compared to the few times I tried to spread the tabs on other bolts in the past. I confess that I didn't try to remove this collar prior to welding so maybe it was already softer than what I was used to. I'm reasonably sure that I didn't generate too much heat as I would weld one side of the handle then let it cool down. Then I'd clean off the old heat paste and slather on more. The important thing is that the paste up near the lugs never showed any signs of drying out. I Tig welded the handle on. Right now I'm tigging because I have access to a tig machine. The first handle I did last week I used Brownell's 3.5% nickle rod, last night I did another but used plain old Steel tig rod and I liked the results much better. The plain rod was much thinner and easier to control the flow. Once I get my Rust bluing tanks set up in a month or so I'll see if I can tell a difference. I only plan on bluing the last quarter of the bolt (Handle & Safety Shroud). Thanks for the replies, Mike | |||
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<JBelk> |
z1r-- For tig rod try "Tartan TIG" from Rockmount Research and Alloys in Vancouver, Wa. (800) ARC-RODS. It's a triple de-oxidizing rod that is designed for mild, carbon, and chrome-moly steel. It blues without blemishes, will color case harden, and can be heat-treated. It's the best I've ever tried. Maybe you remember Ross Seyfried's 475 Linebaugh revolvers with the sight recess welded up and reshaped.....that's Tartan TIG rod. I've never bothered with heat paste on a bolt.....if you weld fairly fast you can weld on a knob and pick the bolt up by the lugs by hand. No matter what you do you have to re-heattreat the cocking cam and extractor cam, so I figure it's better to not have a mess of heat paste goop to clean up. I DO use heat paste on Remington handles that are replaced without the silver solder coming loose. Pictures here: Welding http://community.webshots.com/album/31279476lSEOHaRuPs | ||
one of us |
JBelk, Thanks so much for the info and photos. I'll definitely be ordering some of that Tartan rod. Do you just heat treat the areas you mentioned? If so how? I had planned on having the whole bolt re-done. -Mike | |||
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<seven17> |
Mr. Belk, What is involved in reheat treating the cocking cam etc? Will case hardening compound work? Is the whole bolt involved? Thanks! | ||
<seven17> |
Thanks JBelk! I printed that one! | ||
one of us |
JBelk, Like Seven17 said, "I printed that one." Thanks. I obviously need more practice welding. I'm no where near as fast as you so for now I'm stuck cleaning the heat paste off my bolts. I am however pleased with my ability to shape the bolt handle. Thanks again for all the advice. -Mike | |||
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