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one of us |
I would use Kroil although a good cleaning afterward is still a must. | |||
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<gone hunting> |
PB Blaster - you can get it at most auto parts stores ------------------ | ||
one of us |
I think most metal soaking/cleaning products are naptha-based. I have a good friend who has a multi-line store in a small town who keeps an upright pipe about 2 1/2 feet tall filled with solvent. He sometimes soaks neglected guns for several days in this pipe. After soaking, blow out with compressed air, let dry, then lightly coat with a good lubricant/preservative. | |||
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one of us |
KanoLabs, the company that makes Kroil has an even better product for your application. They make a product called Exrust that is specifically desiged for rust removal. I have used it for two automotive restorations and can say that it works quite well. You can buy it direct from Kanolabs. | |||
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one of us |
Any product that will disolve or remove rust will also remove bluing. A penetrating rust inhibiting oil is the only other option. To really work well the barreled action can be boiled in water and then a water displacing oil applied. In reality it is best to totally disassemble before doing anything of the sort to ensure that you get it all taken care of. Regards, Bill. | |||
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<Jordan> |
Thanks to all of you for your responses. Bill, as I was researching a solution to this problem, I discovered what you posted, to wit, that anything which actually removes rust will also remove blueing since blueing is a type of controlled rusting. I may end up completely disasembling this baby in any event. I want to hand it down to my son and so on, so I may just have to attack the rust by stripping it and having it completely reblued. Thanks for all the suggestions. Regards, Jordan | ||
one of us |
Jordan, The best an most viable way to properly remove ALL of the rust is to have the entire firearm receive a properly forumulated ultrasonic cleaning (IMHO). It requires the use of DI water (deionized) which is 200 MegOhm with the strength of an 80 Khz ultrasonic frequency using an acidic-based cleaner in tandem with a rust inhibitor. The only tricky part is NOT to pickle the metal. There are experts out there that understand these fundamentals. I have very successfully restored resizing dies ranging from light to severe (i.e. pitted) corrosion using this process. Although I used a standard laundry detergent in the first stage cleaning, immediatly following with a heavy surfactant-type cleaner. Naturally, all of the pits remain - but all of the rust is gone. My friend Joe brought over 4 different set of dies which he purchased used from a fellow who kept these on his boat (so the environment was at its harshest possible). This process I am describing is most impressive. In the Navy we called this FM (you know - f$$king magic). Look into it if you have an interest level and let us know if you use this type of method. ------------------ Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. [This message has been edited by Alex Szabo (edited 03-04-2002).] | |||
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