How much time do you have before the Blackmax 380 is set? It almost appears to be a super glue?

I am going to use it to cement my front and rear ramps on in addition to the mounting screws; I intend to lay a bead on the barrel and in the screw holes and then assemble. Those tiny screws can be a bear to line up is why I ask about the time. What works best to wipe off seapage? This is my pre 64 Win 70 with I.T.D. installed Douglas stainless barrel in 375 H&H.

It works great, but you better hurry! I used acetone.
Butch

quote:

Originally posted by airgun1:
I am going to use it to cement my front and rear ramps on in addition to the mounting screws; I intend to lay a bead on the barrel and in the screw holes and then assemble.

Why not just weld them on and be done with it?

10 days ago I've used the Loctite 638 to glue this ramp that was welded slightly crooked at the factory;



No screws, only the glue. It's a test, since the rifle will be reblued soon; after about 24 hours I clamped the front of the barrel in a bench vise and put a couple of mallet blows on both sides of the ramp; nothing happened. I've choosen the 638 over the Blackmax, since it's slower to bond, and lets you 3-4 minutes to put the parts in place, furthermore it's dense and doesn't seep. Brownells recommends it for bonding gun sights.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/...&st=638%20loctite&s=

I may look into the 638. The barrel is already drilled. I don't like higher temps on a barrel, such as 1600 degree silver solder.

quote:

Originally posted by airgun1:
...I don't like higher temps on a barrel....

Neither do I

QUOTE]Originally posted by airgun1:
How much time do you have before the Blackmax 380 is set? It almost appears to be a super glue?
[/QUOTE]

The tighter the fit, the more exciting it gets! If you have a band truly fit properly to a barrel, you better be on your toes when you fit it up with he glue. Big gaps give you more time, but of course are not "right."

Yes, My impression was that Black Max was some form of cyocrynate, similar to Super Glue

Proper heat does not hurt barrels at all. I used to be sorta squeamish just based on all of the BS I read over the years in gun rags. I knew better from real world experience doing a lot of heat treating and a fair amount of soldering at different temps, but still, when reading the same stuff over and over little pieces of it do stick in the back of my mind. Using HiForce 44 won’t hurt anything at all. Scores of millions of rifle barrels have had silver solder used on them and they are fine, even 100 years later. People call HF 44 solder “silver solder,” but it is not to be confused with true “Silver solder,” which is actually a braze. Both are fine when used properly.

Want to see some heat on a barrel? Make a professional quarter rib (meaning a true, proper fit with no gaps and good fit under the rib) and glue it to your barrel with Black Max. Now mill the dovetail and rough shape the rib on the milling machine. OK, now you are ready to remove the rib to do final clean up, drill and tap barrel for rib hold down, screw, etc., etc. Put heat on the rib to “just pop it off.” That Black Max hold on tighter than HF 44 solder. I am serious-it the fit was really tight and the bond is hard, good God man do you ever have to dump heat into that barrel!!! I mean, WOW! It has to be more than HF44 solder. Breaking loose barrel band is hard enough, but a rib that has all of that surface area holds on like there is no tomorrow. I did a second Qrib and Black Maxed it on, but I was VERY careful to just use a little of the glue and that one popped off with much less heat and fanfare.

I like Black Max in certain situations, mainly because the clean up is easier than solder. I use steel wool and acetone, and the stuff comes right off of clean metal. Well, with just a little elbow grease behind the steel wool.

Oh, what I do with a band may help you here. I put alignment lines on a barrel before doing something like sliding on a band. Without these I have too much trouble getting stuff where I want it before the glue sticks. You may want to make some marks and line up your base that way. The screw holes may be hard to see with the BM in there.

Where do you purchase BM 380 and Loctite 638? I've called and contacted a couple of places here and they looked at me like I come from Mars.

Help!

Thanks, Bill

Brownells

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/...octite&ps=10&si=True

Grainger