THE ACCURATERELOADING.COM GUNSMITHING FORUM


Moderators: jeffeosso
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
Shaping and installing buffalo horn buttplates
 Login/Join
 
one of us
Picture of TC1
posted
Please tell me what you know about installing, shaping and polishing these. I recently bought one and it's just a slab. I would imagine you would grind the sides like a regular recoil pad, but what about shaping and polishing? I'm trying to convince myself the black plastic plate on the rifle now doesn't look that bad, but if I could do this successfully I think it would make a nice addition to this rifle.

Thanks,
Terry



--------------------------------------------

Well, other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play?
 
Posts: 6315 | Location: Mississippi | Registered: 18 May 2002Reply With Quote
One of Us
Picture of gunmaker
posted Hide Post
Terry
The hardest part is getting memory of the smell out of your head. It's one of those burnt hair things. You can file them. It feels a little weird like filing on titanium. It works, just a little strange. Kind of like fingers on a chalk board.


gunmaker
------------------
James Anderson Metalsmith & Stockmaker
WEB SITE

More Pics on FLICKR
 
Posts: 1864 | Location: Western South Dakota | Registered: 05 January 2005Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
Beautiful material and easy to work with.

Any knife supply catalog (Jantz, K&G, Sheffield, etc) should be able to provide replacements if you make a mistake (2 slabs for $5-15) depending on color. More white/creme streaks = more cost.

A belt sander with a fresh belt and slow speeds will easily shape it without that melted flesh smell...or at least less of it.
I would sand it to 400 grit and go to the 1800rpm buffer (med firm wheel followed by a soft loose buff for a glassy finish)

If it is expoxied in place-
rough it up to 80 grit and wipe any dust off with alcohol before applying epoxy.

Can't get it perfectly flat? (it IS a pain)
Tape sandaper to a piece of glass, or table. Turn the piece often to avaoid uneven pressure messing up the flatness.
Black fiber (or G10 or micarta) spacer with black colorant mixed into the epoxy will hide tiny imperfections and look good doing it.

Good Luck with it! Remember, if you botch it you still learned something. You can always buy another and start over.

Scott.
 
Posts: 44 | Location: Midwestern USA | Registered: 30 November 2006Reply With Quote
Moderator

Picture of Mark
posted Hide Post
As Gunmaker mentioned, horn and bone will both let you know when you get them too hot while sanding!

My technique is to only sand them for a few seconds and then back off for a few to let it cool down, frequently rubbing it with a finger to get a feel for how hot the material is getting in addition to wiping the dust off so you can get a good look how the removal is going.

My filing technique leaves a lot to be desired and I'd always seem to get chatter marks that I'd have to sand out anyway, so for handwork I tend to prefer the sandpaper taped to a stick method.


for every hour in front of the computer you should have 3 hours outside
 
Posts: 7786 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000Reply With Quote
one of us
Picture of TC1
posted Hide Post
Thanks!

Terry


--------------------------------------------

Well, other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play?
 
Posts: 6315 | Location: Mississippi | Registered: 18 May 2002Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
SH covered the subject well. Use slow speed sanders and buffers, and progress slowly. Use new belts, and fresh sand paper.
I use it for handles of knives I make.
When buffing, use only and 1800 RPM buffer, white compond and do not over heat the Buffalo Horn. Just lightly touch the buffer to the horn It finishes up beautifully. A buffer can overheat things in a heartbeat.

Don




 
Posts: 5798 | Registered: 10 July 2004Reply With Quote
  Powered by Social Strata  
 


Copyright December 1997-2023 Accuratereloading.com


Visit our on-line store for AR Memorabilia