Is there a good way to mark your barrels other than sending them off? I am getting lots of aftermarket barrels and tight necked chambers that I would like to see marked.

For example

"293 NECK"
"NO FACTORY AMMO"
"BRUX 1/10"

Of course would want to make it look good also.

What tools would I need?
Is it hard to do?
What process or method?

The two basic ways are stamping and etching. You could get a set of number/letter stamps from your local import store, practice on some scrap steel, then stamp the barrels. You could also buy an electro-chemical etching kit. A Google search should come up with a few. Basically, you use your computer printer to print a "stencil" of the information and apply it to the steel. Then you use the electro-etcher to etch the data into the steel.

http://www.etching-metal.com/e...chemical-etching.htm

quote:

Originally posted by woods:
"293 NECK"
"NO FACTORY AMMO"
"BRUX 1/10"

Of course would want to make it look good also.

What tools would I need?
Is it hard to do?
What process or method?

Or bone up on your penmanship and buy a WEN electric engraver.

Could buy a 4th axis CNC mill. @ 80K for a basic model
Just kidding
Stamps or learn to engrave

quote:

Originally posted by woods:
Is there a good way to mark your barrels other than sending them off? I am getting lots of aftermarket barrels and tight necked chambers that I would like to see marked.

For example

"293 NECK"
"NO FACTORY AMMO"
"BRUX 1/10"

Of course would want to make it look good also.

What tools would I need?
Is it hard to do?
What process or method?

Or, you could open the neck.

But they're shooting so good now malm!

Would something like this work?


Is it hard to keep the markings straight?

Haven't used stamping for a long time, but if you start at the back (stamp backwards) it's easier to keep things straight. Dymo tape also helps

quote:

Originally posted by woods:
Would something like this work?

Not if they're chinese imports from Harbor Freight Tools.

And don't waste your money on any of the various 'stamping guides' that clamp to the barrel. They're supposed to hold each individual stencil in a straight line with the proper spacing, but guess what? Each individual stencil is formed just a little differently from the others, with each character placed only APPROXIMATELY in the center of the stencil's shaft.

If you want deep professional-looking markings, send your stuff to someone like Glenn Fewless (hst) who has a pantograph designed for cutting steel. It's a LOT better and more professional-looking than any etching or hand-stamping.

BTW I believe that etching is considered too shallow to be legal for serial numbers.
Regards, Joe

I do mine on a "New Hermes" I got a while ago. It is a diamond scratch like the jewellers use. I could do it for you.

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe:
Haven't used stamping for a long time, but if you start at the back (stamp backwards) it's easier to keep things straight. Dymo tape also helps

+1

I have been using this trick for over 20 years because I am right handed. One other trick is use a copper hammer it wont ever shoot a stamp out of your hand. But if you want it to realy look good get them cut.

Etching is fine for serial numbers (or anything else) as long as you know what you are doing.

quote:

Originally posted by woods:
Is there a good way to mark your barrels other than sending them off? I am getting lots of aftermarket barrels and tight necked chambers that I would like to see marked. ...

Was the GunSmith too blind to mark them properly to begin with, or just an old Slacker?(Yes I know who it is! )

Did he supply a Cerosafe Chamber Cast?

Man-O-Man Woods, you let that guy get away with anything. Pay $30 for a rebarrel job and that is the way it goes.

By the way, I can tell you how to do the "Marking" with a Side Grinder and Baling Wire to Etch with. Use Duct Tape for a "relatively" straight line(maybe).

You can also use the Side Grinder to remove the "MADE IN JAPAN" stamp.

quote:

Originally posted by ted thorn:

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe:
Haven't used stamping for a long time, but if you start at the back (stamp backwards) it's easier to keep things straight. Dymo tape also helps

+1

I have been using this trick for over 20 years because I am right handed. One other trick is use a copper hammer it wont ever shoot a stamp out of your hand. But if you want it to realy look good get them cut.

I guess it stands to reason that a lefty would do it "forward??? Like the tip about copper hammer

quote:

Originally posted by Hot Core:

quote:

Originally posted by woods:
Is there a good way to mark your barrels other than sending them off? I am getting lots of aftermarket barrels and tight necked chambers that I would like to see marked. ...

Was the GunSmith too blind to mark them properly to begin with, or just an old Slacker?(Yes I know who it is! )

Did he supply a Cerosafe Chamber Cast?

Man-O-Man Woods, you let that guy get away with anything. Pay $30 for a rebarrel job and that is the way it goes.

By the way, I can tell you how to do the "Marking" with a Side Grinder and Baling Wire to Etch with. Use Duct Tape for a "relatively" straight line(maybe).

You can also use the Side Grinder to remove the "MADE IN JAPAN" stamp.

Send us a picture of one you have done HC!

Bet it would be done with baling wire bent into the letters and silver soldered on. Didn't misspell any words, did you?

Besides you should know better than to try and piss off an old marine!

Is there a monumental difference in quality between a set of stamps for $130.00 or $20.00?

quote:

Originally posted by woods:
Is there a monumental difference in quality between a set of stamps for $130.00 or $20.00?

My guess is that the $20.00 set might last a whole two blows with a hammer.

I have always used stamps and never saw any real difference forward or backward. Sadly, I think my stamping skills peaked about thirty years ago and started declining at about the same time I started wearing bifocals 15 years ago. I use tape for alignment and guesstimation for spacing. Mostly, it comes out OK.
I have made the occasional mistake and was once startled to see I had marked a barrel "308 Norma Nag". Fortunately, the "M" covered the "N" pretty well and I got away with it. Perfection is seldom attained but it usually a cut above adequate. As the shop motto says: Gunsmithing by Leeper- It won't make you puke. Regards, Bill.

I knew a nag named Norma and she was all of 308.

Gentlemens:

I have pretty much gone to the electo-chemical etching, as it does a nice job and the set up is a lot simpler.

In fact I have a very nice Deckel pantograph engraver for sale if anyone is looking...

Glenn Fewless

quote:

Originally posted by loud-n-boomer:
Etching is fine for serial numbers (or anything else) as long as you know what you are doing.

Please don't take any chances with the Feds, I've been told pretty clearly that etching isn't deep enough to be legal for serial numbers.
Caveat emptor, Joe

If you take a piece of .008" shim stock and form it to the barrel, next tape it to the barrel with the top side where you want the stamp and use that as a guide. Stamp your letters with the barrel clamped in the milling machine vise, it keeps the hammer from bouncing and giving you a double stamp. I did it that way for years, until I got the Hermes.

quote:

I knew a nag named Norma and she was all of 308.

I know her she has a sister named 358.

Thanks for all the tips.

Anyone have any pics of a barrel marked with 3/32" or 1/8" lettering (not you HC )?

This set is $136.50



while the one from this company is only $9.00!



Now I like good tools better than most (and certainly HC ) and will spend the money for a tool that will do a better job.

Colombia Marking Tools makes what looks like a great set for $126.37



I'll keep looking, maybe I can get a good set for around $60.00 or so.

My stamps are Hanson. I forget how much they cost though. I have had them for years, they are top shelf tools.

What's the best looking way to change from one caliber marking to another, as when a gun is rechambered or rebored? How to get rid of the original without screwing it up too badly?

Let's assume turning the barrel to hide the original is not an option.

I had Cliff Labounty rebore a 30-06 to a .35 Whelen and they ground the original marking off to leave a small flat area onto which they stamped the new one. Looks OK but not great.

Any other suggestions?

quote:

Originally posted by Recoil Rob:
What's the best looking way to change from one caliber marking to another, as when a gun is rechambered or rebored? How to get rid of the original without screwing it up too badly?

Let's assume turning the barrel to hide the original is not an option.

I had Cliff Labounty rebore a 30-06 to a .35 Whelen and they ground the original marking off to leave a small flat area onto which they stamped the new one. Looks OK but not great.

Any other suggestions?

I had Dennis Olson rechamber a barrel from 30-06 to 300 H&H. I began to question him about the different possibilities for remarking the barrel. In typical Dennis Olson fashion ignored my(ignorant) questioning and replied, "It'll look perfect."

Being a bit of a pest, I asked if he would mill a flat where the old stamping was, or.......

He replied, "It'll look like it came factory marked 300 H&H."

When it showed up a few weeks later the first thing I did was check out the new stamping. It was 100% perfect. The barrel had not been turned down or milled and I looked from every angle and I can't see any lines or remnants of the original stamping. It looks like it has always said 300 H&H.

And the weirdest part: the original "R" in a circle(Ruger stamp?) that sits just above the chamber marking is still there. I have no idea how he did it, maybe magic?

I will post some photos when I have a chance.

quote:

Originally posted by woods:
Anyone have any pics of a barrel marked with 3/32" or 1/8" lettering (not you HC )?

Sorry, no pics.

I find that 3/32" is slightly too large while 1/16" is slightly too small for best looks, for me, so it stands to reason that something in the middle like 2mm would perhaps be a better-looking size.

Unfortunately it appears that the 2mm size is not available in the US except for an exorbitant price, well over $100. Brownell's used to sell a single 'M' stamp in the 2mm size, for marking Euro chamberings, but they don't show it any more.

Any suggestions for obtaining the 2mm size?
Regards, Joe

quote:

Originally posted by Hot Core:

quote:

Originally posted by woods:
Is there a good way to mark your barrels other than sending them off? I am getting lots of aftermarket barrels and tight necked chambers that I would like to see marked. ...

Was the GunSmith too blind to mark them properly to begin with, or just an old Slacker?(Yes I know who it is! )

Did he supply a Cerosafe Chamber Cast?

Man-O-Man Woods, you let that guy get away with anything. Pay $30 for a rebarrel job and that is the way it goes.

By the way, I can tell you how to do the "Marking" with a Side Grinder and Baling Wire to Etch with. Use Duct Tape for a "relatively" straight line(maybe).

You can also use the Side Grinder to remove the "MADE IN JAPAN" stamp.

Accidently Deleted these wonderful Words of Wisdom.

Hey Woods, It appears the "G is backwards or upside-down" in the $9 set. And the "B, C, D, E and J" are 180deg out of phase with the rest of the Stamps, but that only requires repositioning.

Got a new Harbor Freight ad yesterday. They have "First Class" Metal Stamps "On-SALE" right now. the 1/8" size is $4.99, 1/4" size is $7.99 and 3/8" size is $18.99. I wonder if any of the letters are backwards???

By the way, you need to note:

quote:

What Jim Kobe recommended:
"... tape it ..."

All of us Great GunSmiffs use TAPE!!!

So, you can put a piece of Duct Tape on the barrel, write the info on it, cover it with some clear TAPE and you are done. As much as you change calibers, this is just as good as Stamping.

Looks like someone is out of medication again.

Looks like the North end of a South bound horse has entered the thread.

Try one of these

We have just taken delivery of one of these, and hope to install it in the next couple of weeks.

I will let you know how it works.

Apparently it is very simple to use.

It works as a windows USB printer, and anything you can print off a computer, you can print with it on practically any material.

quote:

Originally posted by Hot Core:
Looks like the North end of a South bound horse has entered the thread.

Are you saying that even a horses ass can see that you are aren't right?