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Gun Bedding vs binding
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What would be the best way to determine if bedding job is causing any bindng of action or barrel?"
 
Posts: 110 | Location: West Michigan | Registered: 13 May 2007Reply With Quote
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If the barrel is free floated you should be able to slide a dollar from the front of the stock to the action freely. On a recoil lug is where I have found the most problems with a poor bedding job. Check the bottom, sides, front and back with dykem to see if the recoil lug is bottoming out or is bound. It would help to know what rifle you are dealing with. Smiler
 
Posts: 84 | Location: South Carolina | Registered: 28 January 2012Reply With Quote
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Sorry but .004" (Approx thickness of a US bill) clearance is not enough for a free floated barrel.

.030" or more on a free floated barrel. depending on the wood and the purpose of the rifle. i.e. on a full tactical tupper ware stock .060" would be fine. But a nice custom would have minimal clearance.

Now as for the binding when you put the action into the stock it should seat firmly with some effort to get it to bottom out. Then when the action screw are snugged up there should be no feel of tension building. The screw should snug up an go tight quick. If it feel different it mean the action is not sitting all the way down and the screws are bending the action.


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Posts: 2534 | Location: National City CA | Registered: 15 December 2008Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Fbull:
What would be the best way to determine if bedding job is causing any bindng of action or barrel?"


The quick and dirty way to check for binding would be to tighten the guard screws, and then systematically loosen and tighten the front guard screw while wrapping your free hand around the barrel and forend to feel for ANY movement as you loosen and then re-tighten the screw. If the action is stressed you will feel it as you loosen and tighten the screw.

Other equally effective methods use diffraction rings or a scope collimator to help detect stress.


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This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
 
Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by kcstott:
Sorry but .004" (Approx thickness of a US bill) clearance is not enough for a free floated barrel.

.030" or more on a free floated barrel. depending on the wood and the purpose of the rifle. i.e. on a full tactical tupper ware stock .060" would be fine. But a nice custom would have minimal clearance.

Now as for the binding when you put the action into the stock it should seat firmly with some effort to get it to bottom out. Then when the action screw are snugged up there should be no feel of tension building. The screw should snug up an go tight quick. If it feel different it mean the action is not sitting all the way down and the screws are bending the action.


for what its worth (nothing), i agree. for years i was a staunch advocate of the dollar bill method, and living in the desert w/no humidity it worked fine. now that i live in a humid climate i have seen bbls. that look great close to the stock but actually touch the bbl. channel which was not the desired result of free floating the bbl. now i do it a min. of .050" when gouging out bbl. channels. the old dollar bill trick simply won't be enough. or at least it hasn't been for me. but i sure used in the past!
 
Posts: 1546 | Location: south of austin texas | Registered: 25 November 2011Reply With Quote
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The comments form john c. is sort of what caused my initial question. Thanks for the responses.

Now next question - what could / would be the effects if material was not removed from the barrel channel of the stock. Only layers of tape used to create the gap between barrel and stock. This is what drove my original question.

Thanks to all
 
Posts: 110 | Location: West Michigan | Registered: 13 May 2007Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Fbull:
Now next question - what could / would be the effects if material was not removed from the barrel channel of the stock. Only layers of tape used to create the gap between barrel and stock. This is what drove my original question.

Thanks to all


You might have something there. Duct tape is some amazing stuff. If you're plan on taping your way up and away from the stock you're going to need longer screws.


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This is my rifle, there are many like it but this one is mine. My rifle is my best friend, it is my life.
 
Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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i tried the duct tape method, but didnit get enuf release agent on the tape. that was not much fun. what works better than duct tape is a thick poly tape. what i've been using is a yellow tape that plumbers use when they bury plain pipe. they cover the pipe with this thick pvc tape
 
Posts: 13462 | Location: faribault mn | Registered: 16 November 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Westpac:
The quick and dirty way to check for binding would be to tighten the guard screws, and then systematically loosen and tighten the front guard screw while wrapping your free hand around the barrel and forend to feel for ANY movement as you loosen and then re-tighten the screw. If the action is stressed you will feel it as you loosen and tighten the screw.


I've seen a more precise rendition of this method where the hand is replaced by a dial indicator attached to the fore-end of the stock.

quote:
Originally posted by Fbull:
Now next question - what could / would be the effects if material was not removed from the barrel channel of the stock. Only layers of tape used to create the gap between barrel and stock. This is what drove my original question.

Thanks to all


Longer screws, and it'll elevate the barreled action in the stock (messes with fit top AND bottom). I vastly prefer removing the necessary material from the barrel channel and wrapping electrical tape at two points to keep the barreled action centered and leveled versus simply elevating the metal in the stock and keeping the b.c. as-is.

My two cents...


"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy."
 
Posts: 776 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 05 September 2006Reply With Quote
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+1 on removing enough stock material and using the tape to center the bbl and THEN bedding. this is what will get you where you want to go.
 
Posts: 1546 | Location: south of austin texas | Registered: 25 November 2011Reply With Quote
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