I used certistrip to successfully strip an old Kimber 82s. So I thought. The finish came off nice on the stock but even after reapplying and using a fine bristle brush on the checkering it appears that I cannot completely remove what was used to seal the checkering. I was hoping it would take the Watco Danish oil stain like the rest of the stock but it didn't.
What would you do now? I'm kinda a perfectionist but don't want to make a mess of it considering it's not terrible, but not perfect. Stripping the original finish revealed a great piece of wood as you can see.

Break out the checkering tools.

John

quote:

Originally posted by gasgunner:
Break out the checkering tools.

John

Not something I am comfortable doing.

Sorry to say, but that's the only way to do it right in my experience. You just need a 90 degree cutter to follow the existing checkering. It will take some time but it's not terribly difficult.

quote:

Originally posted by Dead Eye:

quote:

Originally posted by gasgunner:
Break out the checkering tools.

John

Not something I am comfortable doing.

Dead Eye, I put the finish on that gun originally. The same finish that was on the stock is in the checkering. The only way to make it look good....recut it. I use Carbide single line cutters made, now, by Ullman Precision Products. Be gentle on your pressure so as to not make the new cuts too deep. Work your way down a little at a time and the diamonds should reform themselves to your perfectionistic joy.

By the By, you have an "S" series gunstock on that 82. It is highly prized and valuable in some circles. In original condition....high 4 figure range.

The original finish was Sherwin-Williams Kem-Var "C". With the proper documentation/license it is still available in most of the USA.

I think that the suggestions are correct. If it was me, I might give the checkering one more treatment with the finish remover and use a tooth brush, then recut the checkering.

As mentioned it is not hard to trace the existing line with a 90 deg Ullman cutter. Need good light. (If light source is low and from the side it casts a shadow which helps you to see the line.) I like to use magnifying reading or jewellers glasses. Go slow, take brakes. Very satisfying. That is a lovely piece of wood.

Thanks everyone for your feedback.

I bought the gun this past winter. It was unfired and came with a set of Kimber detach rings for 1800$. In Canada they are not very common so I figured it was fair based on the pics I was provided with.
The rifle was prestine but the original finish was dry cracked which bothered me a bit even though my intent was to shoot it, not collect it.
It's crazy accurate with CCI standard velocity loads. I blew through a nearly brick shooting rimfire silhouette so far. The balance and feel is like a centerfire. The trigger as good as well.
Here's what it looked like before I "messed" with it.
I'm going to tape off the checkering and try to strip it again. Maybe not right away, see how much it bothers me. Or look for a checkering tool and see if I am capable of recutting. Patiently... something I would enjoy learning none the less.

Thanks again!

Don't know what stripper you used but I have had good luck with Jasco paint remover. It has taken off even the bowling pin finish on Brownings. Don't use their varnish remover, it doesn's work but the paint remover does the trick. Let it soak a little then use a toothbrush.

Dead Eye

Something will cut the finish. Keep trying.
Try several applications of good old Lacquer thinner with a nylon brush from the auto parts store. It may take several passes to soften it up. Brass ones work a bit quicker. But may scar the points of the diamonds. Checkering refreshing is not as easy as some think.
If all else fails, get a professional to re-cut. Actually, not re-cut, remove the finish only. Too deep and the integrity of the original work is gone.

That rifle is worth having a professional do it.

quote:

posted 03 July 2019 20:44 Hide Post
That rifle is worth having a professional do it.

absolutely - you have a gem and even recutting the checkering isn't a job for a amateur one flock up and you loose

I agree. Try acetone and brush with a nylon Dremel wheel in a moto tool. That should get it.

quote:

Originally posted by custombolt:
Dead Eye

Something will cut the finish. Keep trying.
Try several applications of good old Lacquer thinner with a nylon brush from the auto parts store. It may take several passes to soften it up. Brass ones work a bit quicker. But may scar the points of the diamonds. Checkering refreshing is not as easy as some think.
If all else fails, get a professional to re-cut. Actually, not re-cut, remove the finish only. Too deep and the integrity of the original work is gone.

quote:

I agree. Try acetone and brush with a nylon Dremel wheel in a moto tool. That should get it.

Please don't. Step away from the Dremil tool! Sure fire disaster.

I have made, finished, re-finished and checkered 100s stocks. I have made lots of mistakes to figure out the optimum ways of doing things.

To clean out checkering use a bronze suede brush. Get it at the cobbler's shop. Honestly, you will not get all of the finish out of the checkering without really missing it up. You will have to re point the checkering. If you have no experience this is the time to cut your losses and farm it out.

Second, next time, avoid stripper. That stock was likely finished with catalyzed polyurethane. It is difficult to strip. The really nasty strippers that are unavailable now used to work, nothing today works well. You get a gummy mess.

So , next time threat the old finish like a filler. Mask off the checkering and wet sand by hand with #320 until you just hit wood then stop. Use mineral spirits to wet sand. After you hit wood, wet sand with diluted finish. Spar varnish is as good as anything. Then go ahead an finish.

When you are happy untape the checkering and recut the border. Install the cutter to cut on the pull so you do not make a mess. Polish and clean the checkering with the bronze suede brush.

Too late now, but I've done this same procedure, only a slightly different version leaving the adhered original finish intact. Remove the loose scale and refill only the voids with a poly/oil mix like Custom Oil satin spray from Brownell's. If the voids are really small, just spray some finish on a piece of clean cardboard and dab it on the voids. Might take a 3 or 4 applications. Wet sand with 1000 to 1500 wet/dry until the added finish is even with the old. Go slow and it's OK to go across the grain if need be to follow the contour. Polish with a rottenstone/BLO mix. Then remove all the polishing compound and wax it up with a good high quality exterior paste wax. High grade car wax can hold up fairly well.

quote:

Originally posted by Scota4570:
Second, next time, avoid stripper. That stock was likely finished with catalyzed polyurethane. It is difficult to strip. The really nasty strippers that are unavailable now used to work, nothing today works well. You get a gummy mess.

So , newt time threat the old finish like a filler. Mask off the checkering and wet sand by hand with #320 until you just hit wood then stop. Use mineral spirits to wet sand. After you hit wood, wet sand with diluted finish. Spar varnish is as good as anything. Then go ahead an finish.

When you are happy untape the checkering and recut the border. Install the cutter to cut on the pull so you do not make a mess. Polish and clean the checkering with the bronze suede brush.

Well I'm going at it now with certistrip reapplied to the checkering only. Looks like I'm making headway removing the original stubborn finish...

One side completed for today.

The other side soaking now.

As I read this I am under the impression that you have already finished the stock, in which case the last thing Id do is sloop a bunch of finish remover in the checkering that would run out onto your finished stock to one degree or another. Since your a perfectionist as stated I would recut the checkering, but since your uncomfortable about tackling such a job, have a professional checkerer do it for you..It shouldn't cost much to have the job done..My guess would be about $75.00..Its an expensive gun, don't go cheap on it, that never works for perfection. Dennis Olson, Plains, Mt. has a girl that does beautiful work and she is not expensive..

It is looking good. I don't use the modern environmentally stripper like I should as it doesn't work as well as the bad old stuff.

When you chase the lines with the checkering tool don't go deep on the first pass. If you work slowly and patiently you will greatly improve that pistol grip checkering. ( No offence, but the original checkering in your photo is quite poor.) You will improve on it significantly. The first time I cleaned up a checkering job was on a Brno. It looked like it was originally done by a drunk with a dull ax. But, it really cleaned up nicely.
The Ullman cutter is excellent but a bit aggressive. That a good thing once you get used to it. "Slow and shallow". Enjoy. It is a very satisfying project.

here is a you tube video for you.( Potterfield from Midway USA) There are probably more.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PWZSbg27aI0

Very well done. No need to re-cut. Integrity 100% in tact. Way to go!

quote:

Originally posted by Dead Eye:
Well I'm going at it now with certistrip reapplied to the checkering only. Looks like I'm making headway removing the original stubborn finish...

One side completed for today.

The other side soaking now.

I spent yesterday stripping the checkering, cleaning it out and repeating three or four times. There are some very stubborn spots that I cannot get to come out. Those I have pictured below.
You are correct that the checkering isn't perfect. The Watco Danish oil finish was mostly resilient to the stripping job and was easy to reapply. Because the finish is dark, the old finish stuck in the checkering shows up more than I would like.

I would say it's better but not perfect. I will inquire to get it recheckered here in Canada.

Thanks again for your suggestions and help!

Good job!

So just to close this one out. I was bored and decided to try a different paint stripper on the checkering. Klean-strip. Worked very well, beyond what certistrip did. In only one try. The stubborn finish in the checkering softened and was removed with a toothbrush. Then Watco Danish oil was reapplied and I am happy.

Next time you come across such a problem with a factory finish, before going into full refinishing mode try rubbing the stock down with Ballistol. It certainly won't hurt it and you might find that the drying cracks largely disappear. It works well with crazed glossy finishes, also.

Hi all,

Haven't been on the forum in a while. This thread piqued interest, so I read such and noticed, as I have upon reading similar discussions dealing with the alchemy of finish removal, the lack of anyone mentioning the use of Saran Wrap. That wonderful film does a great job holding the gasses and other liquidy stuff trapped on the offending finish much longer.

Give it a try, what's to lose, eh?

Luck,

Stephen

Nice work. Persistence got the job done. The checkering looks nice and crisp.

It's amazing what ideas come to mind sitting in a house in a deep freeze that's even too cold to hunt coyotes in. Thanks for the help on this project Accurate Reloading!

How about a nice satin/semi-gloss finish on top to totally fill the grain and add some depth?
Gun Savr Custom Oil Satin spray from Brownell's is pretty good stuff. Taping off the checkering first is recommended and that takes time.
Here's an example of one. It has not been polished yet.

Wow that is nice! How hard was the application?
Thanks for sharing!

Dead Eye; Pro Custom Oil is the finish I have been using for 25 years to replicate the finish I developed at Kimber of Oregon. Sherwin Williams discontinued 2 of the 3 parts of the formula. It is good stuff. You have a Kimber "S" series rifle. It was made between '81-'82. The finish you took off was a Sherwin-Williams product called KemVar C. It is an Alkyd Urea Epoxy. I have used JASCO Marine Grade Stripper for decades to remove Kimber finishes. You might say it is a specialty of my business. Nice job. Unfortunately getting gun stuff across the border is a pain now. Going from USA to CA is not possible without personal owner carry or using an Import/Export provider.

Sorry to hear that.
Thanks Dennis.

Thanks. Dead Eye.

I had no idea how hard it was to get Custom Oil up there. It was the fastest way to a decent finish.

Looks like you may have to consider TruOil. It takes at least twice as many coats to fill the grain than Custom Oil in my experience. Amazon.ca sells it but not in an aerosol. Just take plenty of time to tape off the checkering well. Scuff the stock with 000 steel wool and clean it using a cloth dampened with some mineral spirits. Dry with a clean cloth. Apply "just wet" long strokes in one direction using a fine bristle brush, check it over for stray bristles and hang it up overnight in a draft free clean room. I hang mine from the curtain bar in the bathroom overnight. Minimum 12 hours to dry in 70*F.

Looks like your stock will drink up 5-6 coats. Be very light with the steel wool in between coats.

This one (bottom pic) is all True Oil followed by some final leveling and polishing.

Jasco that works on all finishes including glass bedding thinned finish, comes in the red can and works with a tooth brush or one of those bronze brushes that look like a toothbrush, use it lightly...Brownells Jun Sav-R is the latest stock finish and as good or better as anything Ive used in the past..easy to apply and can take a beating...

Gun Savr is Custom oil Ray.

quote:

Originally posted by Atkinson:
Jasco that works on all finishes including glass bedding thinned finish, comes in the red can and works with a tooth brush or one of those bronze brushes that look like a toothbrush, use it lightly...Brownells Jun Sav-R is the latest stock finish and as good or better as anything Ive used in the past..easy to apply and can take a beating...

So dead eye. Any luck finding custom oil or do you plan on sticking with the current stock finish?
Again, nice job.
CB

I'm going to keep it like it is for now.
I haven't searched for the custom oil, and really like the flat oil finish.
I'd try the true oil or other finish on another piece of wood before I attempt it on this Kimber. Baby steps!