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Wood patch for stock blanks???? Help Please
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Picture of TC1
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I just received a stock today from GAC. The wood is absolutely beautiful with the exception one spot they repaired. The patch doesn't match the wood at all. I think I can repair their repair if I can find out what kind of material to use.

What type of filler is used to repair imperfections in wood stocks? I assume it has to dry rock hard and be color blended to match the wood. Thanks for the help.

Terry

Here's a large view

Here's one from the good side
 
Posts: 6315 | Location: Mississippi | Registered: 18 May 2002Reply With Quote
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I've always used Acraglas dyed to an appropriate shade.
 
Posts: 1366 | Location: Houston, TX | Registered: 10 February 2003Reply With Quote
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Since it is in the knot then it is easy to fix. Use epoxy and dye or dark walnut saw dust. Take it darker then the wood around the hole. When you oil the stock to finish it the color will darkin. The repair will not get any darker. I agree the stock is beautiful and an easy fix.
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of Bill Soverns
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I use wood from the stock.....shave off some from the butt and use some clear epoxy......put some in the hole then put some of the wood in and pound it in hard. Once it dries filed down the high spot.
 
Posts: 1268 | Location: Newell, SD, USA | Registered: 07 December 2001Reply With Quote
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Here is my guess, feel free to ridicule me if it proves to be wrong!

I think this it just a slight crack in the knot and not a small hole, the filler was smeared in there with a putty knife and left a little large, when it is sanded down it will be much smaller. Like you, it is too light but as a rule it is easier to make stuff darker than lighter so just use a dark walnut on a toothpick or Qtip to stain the slight line that may stand out. Actually, maybe a dark cherry or something else with a hint of red in it, but can't really tell looking at my monitor.

As has been posted, the best way is to sand some off then mix it with epoxy or put it in the cracks with some drops of superglue over it.

Superglue is great stuff! but that is another subject. The short version is only buy it at a hobby shop, that way you get fresh stuff and make sure your bottle has the hair-thin little tube to put in the end so you get tiny drops.
 
Posts: 7774 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000Reply With Quote
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What Bill Soverns said........Get rid of all that crap they put in the void by any means you are comfortable with. Fill it full of liquid acraglass (clear). Pack as many wood slivers(shaved off of the blank)into the crack or hole or whatever it is.

Let it harden and file it down flush.

RK
 
Posts: 1634 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 29 December 2002Reply With Quote
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Any changes/improvements in methods over the last 16 years? I have a present patching problem. Thanks.
 
Posts: 80 | Location: Ohio | Registered: 11 September 2008Reply With Quote
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No.
 
Posts: 17294 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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I say yes but it ain't easy. Look at what the Stock Dr. and Mark Larson do. Amazing stuff can be done, but it takes skills.
 
Posts: 3770 | Location: Boulder Colorado | Registered: 27 February 2004Reply With Quote
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I recall some years back where Roger Vardy showed how he filled a void in a high grade blank with a matching wood plug from the same blank I believe. May have been posted on N.E. Maybe he will chime in. Patch method likely depends on the job at hand.
 
Posts: 1177 | Location: Wyoming | Registered: 04 April 2009Reply With Quote
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I've used Brownells shellac sticks with excellent results. It's "old school" and takes a bit of practice but it works, you really have to know where the repair was done and look hard to spot it.
 
Posts: 367 | Location: South east Georgia | Registered: 16 September 2005Reply With Quote
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What some folks over look is patching is easy as a rule and if it doesn't work the first time its easy to start over...The real problem is in year or two when the patch pops through the finish as the wood moves around!!..wood sawdust in some cases, slivers of wood in others, and on some repairs one has to match color and grain, one reason never to throw away any piece of wood, and save at least some saw dust and every sliver from every stock you build or refinish...Ive hammered slivers soaked in glue or glass in, tamped sawdust in mixed in both..Im of the opinion that maybe Elmers Glue works perhaps better than glass or so it seems as to the repair popping thru the finish, any body have any comments on that? like I said "it seems" on some repairs I made with it, and saw the repair some 10 to 20 years later..????

I would think and have used one of the water type glass compounds and the repair looks great but lasting? dunno!


Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120

rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
 
Posts: 42176 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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