Rod have you ever milled the sear down on these vanguard howa triggers or is there another way ? it appears they are designed to render the safety inoperative if the sear engagement is lessened to the point of them being bearable. every one of these rifles i mess with has to have a $150.00 timney put on it. thanks for any advice on this. Philip

Yeah that lawyer proof trigger was a going concern when I was working for Weatherby. Guys would monkey with the sear engagement and then they would fire on safe or if you put the gun on safe and pulled the trigger the sear would crawl over and when you disengaged the safe they would fire.

I'm not suggesting that you do this - But if you are VERY CAREFUL you can do a light polish on the first sear with with a hard matchless wheel. It's not much of an improvement so I don't even try anymore. If you round the corner to much it will screw the trigger and you will end up replacing the trigger. Back when I was working for them, Weatherby did not have fire control parts for sale. Possibly that has changed now, but back then if you wreaked a sear you had to buy a new complete unit. The best bet is to install a Timney.

Maybe it's not the correct thing to say in an open forum, but you make more money going with the Timney anyway. And it's a lot safer than monkeying with that lawyer proof trigger. Better for you, better for the customer.

Even though its rather infuriating!

quote:

Originally posted by speerchucker30x378:
Maybe it's not the correct thing to say in an open forum, but you make more money going with the Timney anyway. And it's a lot safer than monkeying with that lawyer proof trigger. Better for you, better for the customer.

The truth has a mystical quality all of its own, largely because it is so unexpected.

Found this over at Long Range Hunting:

http://www.longrangehunting.co...djustment-how-52584/

Did they have different triggers. My Vanguard was adjustable as I remember.

Rod thank you, i'll use the timneys. not worth the worry to alter the originals. i appreciate the reply.
Bob, i took a look at that. thank you.
Ramrod the older guns may have been better like a lot of others i don't know what rifle you have. the newer ones have sear and weight of pull adjustments but i've not been able to get one to adjust any where near to what i call a good trigger.

quote:

Originally posted by ramrod340:
Did they have different triggers. My Vanguard was adjustable as I remember.

They are adjustable Paul. Generally speaking they are adjustable from bad, to worse. Some guys do mess with them, but the first time you buy the customer a new trigger your profits from the next three jobs are lost. LOL

Over the years I have learned to self-insure work that has a high rate of failure. A lot of guys have poopooed me because I charge an arm and a leg for recoil pads. Those same people will also start a pissing war with a customer when they break through the tape and put a gash in a guys Weatherby MKV and then try to cover it up. I just buy the guy a new stock. But I charge enough on the pad jobs to afford a couple of stocks per year over and above my normal labor rates. I've probably done 30 to 50 pads per year for the last 35 years. They look factory, like they grew there after I'm done, but no matter how much I practice, I still seem to nick the odd one. Maybe some day I'll get good at it.

Are we talking about the 2-stage "hact" or whatever howa trigger? Here is a picture:



I just replaced the spring behind that screw with the blob of stuff and it's a great trigger now.

If you make that spring really light, then you can put it on safe, pull the trigger and the sear can slip off. But if you put it back to fire, the pin won't fall and the trigger pull is pretty hard. I guess that's the "actuator" in the 2-stage design. So my point is, the gun is still safe even if you monkey with that spring and make it super light.

The HACT is a great trigger. And the only two stage trigger I am aware of that comes standard on a factory rifle.

quote:

They are adjustable Paul. Generally speaking they are adjustable from bad, to worse.

I no longer have the rifle. I know for sure I didn't take the trigger apart. I simply "remember" adjusted pull weight. But I've slept way to many times and had way to many surgeries to remember exact details. I have 2 Minis now. I need to play with their triggers.

Always nice to hear from voices of experience over a one timer.

mine may have been two stage. pull through the creep then at some point the rifle would fire.

quote:

Originally posted by Phil Brousseau:
mine may have been two stage. pull through the creep then at some point the rifle would fire.

I have had 3 Howas with this trigger.

All of them have been really good. But needed a bit of stone work to make nice. I like a trigger about 1.5 pounds on the first stage nad 1.5 pounds on the second stage.

quote:

I just replaced the spring behind that screw with the blob of stuff and it's a great trigger now.

JPL,
What is "the blob of stuff?"

I think he means that blob of hot glue covering the screw and lock nut in the pic.

quote:

Originally posted by Fury01:

quote:

I just replaced the spring behind that screw with the blob of stuff and it's a great trigger now.

JPL,
What is "the blob of stuff?"

M Y - G U M ! ! ! ! This is so embarrassing. .

quote:

Originally posted by Fury01:
JPL, What is "the blob of stuff?"

It's a dab of rtv on the adjustment screw and jam nut. I suppose it indicates if the trigger has been messed with and the mattress tag lawyers will hunt you down if you remove it.

You can swap the spring out easily without touching that screw though.

So, I'm guessing this is not the trigger you guys were talking about then. If it's compatible, then maybe buying hact triggers from howa would be a good alternative to the timney?