Will be building a real big bore rifle based on a p 17 action and would like to know if anyone has adapted a Rem style recoil lug to make an improvement over the small recoil lug that is there? It seems like a good idea but have not heard of anyone doing it. Thank you for your help snd opinions.
RR

Just add a second barrel-mounted recoil lug.

You could also incorporate an aluminum block in the bedding that mates to the recoil lug. This helps distribute the load from the point contact at the lug.

The problem with a barrel mounted lug is the heat (1300 degrees plus) is really bad for the barrel(scale) and mechanically mounting is not really possible due to not enough steel to sink the screw deep enough. The remington lug just seemed like a elegant solution Yes I'm a benefactor member in the NRA, Don't think an aluminum block is going to help much as I'm looking at 100 plus pounds of recoil force. Thanks for your opinion.

Well, The classic way we used to do it, was with a nice, elegant, cross bolt. But in today's world of plastic, CNC machining and Chinese made components I suppose that would get me a double windup, underhanded, open handed, peepee slap with righteous indignation. So I won't even suggest that nonsense !

quote:

Originally posted by rrob692326:
The problem with a barrel mounted lug is the heat (1300 degrees plus) is really bad for the barrel(scale) and mechanically mounting is not really possible due to not enough steel to sink the screw deep enough. The remington lug just seemed like a elegant solution Yes I'm a benefactor member in the NRA, Don't think an aluminum block is going to help much as I'm looking at 100 plus pounds of recoil force. Thanks for your opinion.

Seems like you already have your answer and made up your mind. Go for it. What I would suggest wouldn't be listened too.

Just wanted to know if anyone tried the remington lug I am aware of the normal route for the problem and that is why I asked a specific question about only the Remington lug. =I will reconsider normal solutions, if it proves that the rem style is not feasible. Enfields have a notorious reputation for cracking the stock at the tang with anything less than a rock solid no sloppy stock recoil movement. Again, thank you all for the help offered and please forgive my not making myself clearer on what I was trying to ask of you.

Well, I don't have one to measure. But just looking at photos, it doesn't appear that the Model 700 lug actually offers a whole hell of a lot more purchase. You cant remove the existing lug because you need it for the front tang screw. Adding a second lug 1/4 inch ahead of the first may actually weaken the stock by creating a rather large end-grain area that could easily break out a big piece of the stock. Recoil lugs have to be kept a certain distance apart to maintain structural integrity. That's why companies like Weatherby and a lot of European gun makers weld them forward onto the barrel. If you want a larger lug, the logical way to go would be to weld one on just behind the existing one. Or just glue in a large aluminum pillar. It would work the same as a larger lug.

If you feel compelled to silver braze the lug there are ways around scaling, but I suggest a dovetailed lug that is soft soldered. Of course, if solutions that have served perfectly well for many, many years don't suit you, by all means, build a better mousetrap.

I have never seen a recoil lug of any kind bent from recoil. In my humble opinion if you are dealing with enough force to bend an Enfield lug your stock will be the weak point.

Joe

The stock is the weak point, and I'm not worried about a bent recoil lug but spreading the recoil force over a larger area with a rem lug. As I said earlier the enfield stock tends to split at the tang. I am also considering Tomany tools good advise about dovetailing the barrel for a recoil lug and using low temp solder. Sounds like a good way should rem lug proves unfeesable. Jpl might be on to something but a steel block instead of aluminum because of strength and weight is not much of a factor. Thanks all

Do this on yours as James Anderson did on my Enfield. Extended tangs along with the other mentioned areas.

That is class work.

Butch isn't exactly clumsy Duane, he just falls down and bumps into more stuff than the rest of us kids do. It's also why gun plumbers make him play with those old, discarded military rifles. Less to damage and they're tougher than the modern stuff !

he he he

Rod, You are right. I can be hunting and a rock or tree is 25yds away and I still bump it. But they are made to hunt.

Sadly, I know where you're coming from Butch. Not so long ago my little Korean buddy showed up from the body shop down the street with 2 lower control arms that he needed modified for some custom shocks and said: "boss say you gonna do him right away for me Rod-Si?" I make a lot of money off them so I dropped one in the mill and locked in a 1 inch carbide end mill. The little parts runner was examining the cutter and remarked that it looked pretty expensive and I replied that they were about $120 but I built them into the price of the job so I didn't really care what they cost. I turned around to put the spanner wrench on the tool caddy and bumped the rapid traverse with my fat ass and sheered the non-turning cutter off on the side of the vise. My smart ass little pal looked at me and said: "Bet you got big margin built into cutters huh Rod-Si?"