I purchased a used CZ 452 American in 22 WMR last week, and was preparing to pull the action out of the stock for the installation of a Brooks trigger kit. The rear action screw came out without a problem, as did the middle screw that just goes into the stock. I can't budge the forward action screw. I don't see any sign of glass bedding, but that is still my first my top suspect.

I'm thinking that trying to conduct heat into the screw to weaken the bond would be the best course of action. I have a short screw driver shift that I could heat with a torch to heat the screw, but would be interested in hearing a better option if one exists.

Thanks!

If you suspect it's being held in place by bedding compound, most sources I've read recommend cold, not heat. Barnsness especially has had good luck breaking them free by putting the gun in the freezer overnight then trying to free it up. Hope that helps!

The freezer trick works for actions stuck into stocks as the two materials contract at different rates. The resulting mechanical forces breaks the bond and releases the stock.

In this case, the issue is steel on steel, so freezing it won't have the desired effect.

Anyway, my problem was solved last night. I machined the tip of a extra large screw driver to fit into the entire length of the screw head with a friction fit. Gave the inserted screw driver a solid rap with a hammer and between that and the larger tool, the screw broke free. It must mave been installed with some thread locking material on it, as there was no glass bedding material to be found.

glad you got it worked out!

Johnly,
The method you used is the best for any screw that is stuck. Give it a good rap with a hammer. What also help is to hit it with the hammer while you turn the screw. This must we don after the initial rap. this method very seldom fails, unless the screw is really badly damaged.

I like to get a perfectly fitting screwdriver and attach a wrench to the screwdriver.

I put the rifle in the bags upsidedown and lean on the screwdriver butt with all of my weight while bumping the wrench.

This can produce 200 foot pounds of torque to the threads.

quote:

Originally posted by Johnly:
I machined the tip of a extra large screw driver to fit into the entire length of the screw head

One should always go for that degree of fit when working with gun screws... You are correct with screws, a well placed rap with a hammer will usually break things free.

quote:

Originally posted by malm:
One should always go for that degree of fit when working with gun screws... You are correct with screws, a well placed rap with a hammer will usually break things free.

All true, and a drop of Hoppes No9 besides has never hurt any screw!

quote:

Originally posted by Bent Fossdal:

quote:

Originally posted by malm:
One should always go for that degree of fit when working with gun screws... You are correct with screws, a well placed rap with a hammer will usually break things free.

All true, and a drop of Hoppes No9 besides has never hurt any screw!

And it makes them smell good too!

Just before I posted you came up with the same idea I was going to suggest. Ahother thought:
I have a impact driver that works well. it consists of a driver that is rapped sharply with a hammer and provides a horozonal twist to the blade. This works well with stuck bolts, nuts and glass bedded screws because it gives a sharp twist to the miscreant.
Judge Sharpe