Do any of you have any experience you would be willing to share, for accurizing the small Cadet Martini-actioned rifles? I am looking for tips that actually worked for you personally in real application to this specific genre of rifle, not general gunsmithing theory nor tricks which worked on other models.

I have had close to 10 of these rifles over the years, mostly in small cartridges, and the only ones that really shot as I thought they should were the Greener "Club" models with heavy barrels in .310 Greener. I now have been left yet another by a late friend, in .22 AI Hornet. And, it is definitely "accuracy cha;llenged".

TIA for your help.

In my somewhat limited (sample of 2) experience, these little rifles are VERY ammo sensitive. Case in point: One of mine is a .17 Ackley Bee. It was an indifferent shooter, and required extremely careful case forming, until Hornady came out with their 20gr Vmax. It still requires careful case forming, but with the Hornady and RE7 it shoots at least as good as I can hold. (I'm normally a 1MOA shooter-anything less is usually luck, more, I just didn't hold right) My other Cadet is in .357Max. It shoots factory fodder into less than 1.5" routinely. I have yet to find a handload that will beat that (although, it's rather new and I've not done a lot of work with it yet)
I guess what I'm saying, I don't know of any "majic tricks" to get them to shoot. Assuming a good barrel, and decent installation, I'd say work on load development.

Thanks for the reply, Pedestal. That IS useful, and encouraging, information. Will try another half-dozen loads if need be and see if I can find somthing which will do better trhan the current wretched 2 MOA groups.

Dear Alberta,
I reall enjoy working on the Cadets and have a few myself. I have found over the years that the fore-ends are a major concern. The original, as you know, are pinned to the barrel and undercut to mesh with the receiver. When I change a barrel I use one of the dovetail fore-end holders like the Win 70[pre-64s] and attach it that way rather than drilling a hole in the barrel and tapping. Also I bed the foreend at the receiver and also as far out as the dovetailed holding screw. This seems to help quite a bit. It takes a bit of work but I feel it is worth it. This makes for a pretty solid platform to rst on the bags. I hope this helps a bit and good luck with your Martini.

Aloha, Mark

Many thanks, Bohica. My W.W.Greener "Club" rifles all had the forends attached by the old fashioned screw method, but then the .310 is a VERY low intensity round, somewhat akin to the .32 S&W Long ...Certainly not in the same pressure league of the .32 H&R Mag.

These rifles I have and have had which have not been shooting well are mainly in things like K-Hornet (current one), .218 Bee, .357 Mag, and .222-R. If working with a few more loads doesn't do it, then I'll try your fore-end trick. Thanks again.

FWIW: My .17Bee has the forend attached with a barrel band only at the front. The .357Max has a stud soldered to the barrel...

Ihave had the best luck with 1/2 " groups with the forearm held on with a tight fitting dovetail like the model 70. After inletting the wood, glass bed the forearm without the front screw in place. ZERO PRESSURE... Drill the front screw hole after glassing. Make a metal two step bushing and counter bore into the bottom of wood. Make a 10/32 screw to fit with a couple of thousands clearance. After the screw is holding wood in place, then scrape the wood that touches the receiver for no more than .002 clearance. If you use a quality barrel it will group very well.