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Filling the hole rear receiver on P17 and p14 actions
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Gents, have a nice winchester 1917 action with a 21"bbl in excellent shape. What process would be utilized to fill in the oblong hole on the rear receiver ring?. I made up a dutchman to physically fill in as much of the hole, then chamfered the edges for tig welding. Since I plan to have it drilled and tapped for both iron sights and scope bases I'm not to concerned about the disimilar metals showing up when the rifle is blued. So any suggestions and/or comments are greatly appreciated. Thanks, Frank
 
Posts: 175 | Registered: 16 November 2008Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Singleshotlover: I'm not to concerned about the disimilar metals showing up when the rifle is blued.


Dissimilar metals take blue in different shades.
 
Posts: 1910 | Registered: 05 January 2010Reply With Quote
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Make a insert, or dutchman, that is an exact fit and you should not need to use and welding if you do it right. Same as relining a barrel. Where when temperatures come back to room temperature the one shrinks over the other and holds it tight as it expands.

Stick the dutchman in deep freeze for a while. Then just knock him in. Some say to heat the receiver but I'm not sure if that would not make the hole get smaller! Make your dutchman longer than the depth of the hole so that you have a "handle" to hold it with and can try it for fit.

We see quite a few of these in the UK and all that I have seen show the finest of lines around them between the plug and the receiver. So indicating that they have not been welded in.

I guess that you will be taking off the ears too? If you were going the wled route I'd make the thing just a bit underheight for the hole and put a layer of tig over the top then dress it down to the desied new profile.
 
Posts: 6823 | Location: United Kingdom | Registered: 18 November 2007Reply With Quote
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If you search www.holtsauctioneers.com on the sealed bid sale there is such a receiver modified at the BSA factory.

Lot 3512 of Sealed Bid Sale Jan 10, 2010. A B.S.A. .22LR MODEL D BARREL AND ACTION, serial no. 13918. It did not sell and after the sale Holt's accept offers on these unsold lots so I guess UK £10 to £20 (about $15 - $30) would get it!

Here's a picture...sorry it might be a bit big. It does show how a good plug looks! This one was even drilled and tapped for standard 'scope thread screws.

The wavy lines are part of the BSA Trademark motif that was put on the rear receiver. Partly I suppose to mask the dutchman infill work.

 
Posts: 6823 | Location: United Kingdom | Registered: 18 November 2007Reply With Quote
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I have one to do myself and plan to make a plug and have Dan Armstrong tig it in. Will us 1018 and I suspect it will blue just fine.
 
Posts: 364 | Location: Sticks, Indiana | Registered: 03 July 2007Reply With Quote
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The duck pond is indeed a problem. On an iron-sighted rifle you might consider an insert of some attractive material that can be engraved or carved. An insert of ivory with a scrimshawed elephant or a plug of ebony with a carved & inlaid monogram initial would be attractive and very unusual. Likewise, an insert of brass or german silver or even aluminum would also be good and could be embellished as the owner likes.

I would be vary leery of D&Ting a plug secured by only shrinkage. VERY leery. If you're going to use a scope, please make sure that the plug where the base attaches is either welded or brazed to the receiver.
Regards, Joe


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Posts: 2756 | Location: deep South | Registered: 09 December 2008Reply With Quote
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I have a Remington receiver with a pond- can the plug be attached with screws rather than welding/soldering?
 
Posts: 3314 | Location: NYC | Registered: 18 April 2005Reply With Quote
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IMO yes, but I'd also use some sort of epoxy as well, especially if you're gonna D&T it.
Regards, Joe


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Posts: 2756 | Location: deep South | Registered: 09 December 2008Reply With Quote
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You described the way I do it: Fit plug, weld, then grind. I use 1018 steel for plug and so far they don't show up different color after bluing.


John Farner

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Posts: 2946 | Location: Corrales, NM, USA | Registered: 07 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Did or does mine need that done John?
Butch
 
Posts: 8964 | Location: Poetry, Texas | Registered: 28 November 2004Reply With Quote
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If you rust blue, the welded joint will not show at all...caustic...well...sometimes
 
Posts: 2221 | Location: Tacoma, WA | Registered: 31 October 2003Reply With Quote
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Butch, no, yours doesn't have that feature.


John Farner

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Posts: 2946 | Location: Corrales, NM, USA | Registered: 07 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Enfield spares, these BSA conversions are pretty common in Canada. Model D's and E's. I have seen them in .270, 30-06 M-17's, and .303, 7mm mag on P-14's.
 
Posts: 85 | Location: Calgary Alberta Kanada | Registered: 30 November 2004Reply With Quote
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Back in "sporterizing" days it was fairly easy to find someone who would fill the hole with a plug and then recountour the rear bridge. Not sure if many gunsmiths are set up for that work now. I had Dennis Olson do one for me about 25 years ago and it came out looking outstanding.
 
Posts: 324 | Registered: 15 October 2003Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by belaw:
Back in "sporterizing" days it was fairly easy to find someone who would fill the hole with a plug and then recountour the rear bridge. Not sure if many gunsmiths are set up for that work now.


What they don't have a file? It doesn't take much to make a plug and weld it in place, finishing up with a file. Standard Operating Procedure.


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Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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It seems to me like that "duck pond hole" would make a great spot for some sort of integral scope release.

If a guy was to take a NECG blank ring and custom machine a foot on it to fit the pond then put a claw mount in front it may be doable.

make a lever with an ecentric cam or maybe some kind of gilatine gate for the release.

Make a trick 375 or maybe 416 with that feature.
could be fun.
Anybody ever seen such an idea executed on a 14 or a 17?
timan



 
Posts: 1234 | Location: Satterlee Arms 1-605-584-2189 | Registered: 12 November 2005Reply With Quote
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heat the bastard up until a brazing rod will flow into it and fill the hole up with brazing rod then cut the ears off it. done and done


VERITAS ODIUM PARIT
 
Posts: 1624 | Location: TEXAS | Registered: 04 June 2005Reply With Quote
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