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Hi all. New here and new to center fire rifle shooting. I have lots of airgun and .22 rimfire experience. I bought a surplus 98 Mauser 8mm recently to try center fire. It was a good deal, so I thought at the time, but the stock is horrible for me. I am 6'3" and have sort of gorilla arms. The length of pull on this thing is terrible for me. Much too short. It is hard to get a good sight picture and the recoil is uncomfortable because the stock does not fit me. I think with a proper length of pull, these problems would be reduced and the rifle would be comfortable to shoot. I am considering a restock, but I don't want to spend too much. From what I have seen in my searchs, a proper restock could cost as much as a new or good used rifle. A slip on recoil pad might help, but I am leary of them. Will it sit securely on the rifle or slip around a lot. Also I have not seen any that will add the 1 1/2" or so I am thinking I will need. Any suggestions? Should I just realize that I made a mistake getting what I though was a good deal and take any money I would use to alter this rifle and put it towards a new rifle? Or is there a way to get this thing shooting comfortably without sinking more than I paid for it into it? | ||
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You can go to someplace like Academy and get a slip-on recoil pad cheap to see how that helps. You can put additional stuff inside the pad to continue lengthening it til it's right. That should salvage the gun until you decide what to do next. "Experience" is the only class you take where the exam comes before the lesson. | |||
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Bobwhite, Welcome aboard! I have no idea what you paid for your rifle or what you are willing to spend for a new stock. If you just want to get to know your new rifle in a more comfortable way (so to speak) why not start by installing an adjustable butt plate. They adjust for LOP, drop and pitch. Brownells and several other places sell them at prices between $60 bucks and $150 bucks. That might give you a better idea of what stock dimensions you need for that time when and if you decide to move up to a new stock...or you may find you want to sell the rifle off and then you can remove the adjustable pad and have a larger buying market since the rifle won’t have a LOP too long for people smaller than you. | |||
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There are very few ways to save money on guns and shooting, and one of the best is to buy what you want right out of the gate. I love old Mausers, but converting a military Mauser into a sporter costs more than buying a factory rifle unless you do the work yourself. Another way to save is to buy a rifle that takes popular and inexpensive ammo, such as a 308 or 30-06, and buy practice ammo by the case from a shop that will cut the price for a bulk purchase. You can always get a box or two of premium hunting stuff when the time comes. These things seem expensive, but I promise you the long-term price tag will be smaller. My advice is to keep your Mauser as a spare/truck gun. In time you will come to appreciate it for what it is -- an extremely rugged field-grade weapon. Until then, buy a rifle you really like and that fits you. It will cost less in the end, you'll shoot it better, and you'll enjoy it far more. Once you've gone far enough off the deep end, you'll know what you really want and you'll have no problem convincing yourself to pay for a custom Mauser. Okie John "The 30-06 works. Period." --Finn Aagaard | |||
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Another word of caution, there are mausers and then there are MAUSERS. There is a big spread in quality and desirability. One of the less desirable models are nothing but money pits and unless you are going to shoot your dollars out of it over the years they are just a waste of money long term. There are other models that are desirable, that when put together properly hold there value and are worth dropping dollars into. Still money pits just not quite as deep. That said there is nothing nicer than a good Model 98 action that has been built right, and they will also have a soft spot in my heart and a open space in my rifle rack for the next one. This doesn't mean $30-40 invested, or a cheap replacement stock with some elbow grease isn't worth the investment, just mind your pints and quarts so to speak. | |||
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Well, it depends on how concerned about looks or originality you are. If all you want is a longer LOP, find a piece of old stock or even a square piece of walnut that will more or less fit the current stock and cut/sand it down to the approximate shape of the military stock butt. Then screw it to the original and add a recoil pad. You might be able to get what you desire by just adding a recoil pad. Again, if looks aren't a factor, just rough grind the outside edges to approximate shape, (put it on the stock and mark the outline of the butt on the recoil pad). Let me hasten to say that if looks are a concern, or originality is a concern, then you need to consider taking off the old stock and putting on a new one BUT as someone above said, before you go very far down that road, you can buy a nice used modern rifle which will do everything the milsup mauser will do but look like a WWI or II weapon and probably do it better. xxxxxxxxxx When considering US based operations of guides/outfitters, check and see if they are NRA members. If not, why support someone who doesn't support us? Consider spending your money elsewhere. NEVER, EVER book a hunt with BLAIR WORLDWIDE HUNTING or JEFF BLAIR. I have come to understand that in hunting, the goal is not the goal but the process. | |||
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Depending on the condition/originality of the existing stock, I'd do like Gatogordo said. Used stockes for 98's are pretty easy to come by and they're pretty close to the same. You could save your stock, pick up a used one and shape it into an "economy sporter". Mauser stocks are pretty beefy, lots of extra wood to work with. Dump the handguard, shorten the forearm, a thick recoil pad and maybe a spacer and you're good to go. Did that to one 'bout forty years ago. Eventually traded it off. Lots of memories in that old rifle, I often wonder where it is now. | |||
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NO one mentioned them, so I will. I recommend a laminated stock from Boyd's Gunstocks. One is available in the $65.00 plus shipping. It takes a couple of hours to finish them off in most instances. Mausers do have to have the bolt handle spot rasped in, but that is easy to do with a rat tail file. It can turn out to be a very nice looking stock for a cheap price and does not take a lot of work at all to finish. cheers seafire | |||
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Thanks for the input. I guess now I just have to look at the wallet, consider what I am ultimately after and decide. I can get a new rifle. Or I can spend as much or more having this one rebuilt by someone else. Or I can cobble together some kind of makeshift, but possibly workable, Frankenstein rifle out of odds and ends. And thereby possibly take the first steps down the trail of a another new hobby that will probably cost more than the other options combined in the long run. The get a new rifle option is looking like the winner for now, but I have an interest in the rebuilding it myself one. I don't think I will opt for farming it out to somebody else though. Thanks again and feel free to give me any other advice. | |||
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A spacer can be made very cheeply from aluminum or uhmw=plastic. LOP is easy to determine. Just measure from the inside of your elbow to your crooked trigger finger. That will give you a close guesstiment allowing for the clothes you will normally be wearing and your good to go. I would go this route as it would be cheeper that getting another stock, also if you used another for a spacer it wouldn't carry the line of the butt. Aluminum or a plastic is just as easy to work with as wood and you don't have to be concerned about the finish. It sounds like about a 3/8" black spacer with a 1" or so recoil pad would work. You could even add a thin 1/32 or 1/16 white shim between the wood and black spacer to doll it up. The cost would be minimal with just a little work to keep the top and bottom lines straight. god luck, Don | |||
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Hi Bob, You have the same problem that I have. Most factory stocks won't fit a guy 6'3". I've found out that my length of pull is around 14 3/4". That's 1" longer than most factory rifles. One thing you can do is find a factory stock and add a 1" recoil pad to it and see if it fits. Another is try a slip-on and see if that helps. I started finishing my own stocks and have really gotten into it. I've done 6 of my own and 9 for neighbors and friends. I also have a friend of mine who is into wood working and he does a great job on finishing. I just got a Weatherby Vanguard back from him today and it looks like glass. I don't have the time or skill to do that kind of finish work. You should see the looks on peoples faces when they see one of these rifles at the range and it's a Mauser or 1917 Enfield. You can order a factory second rollover stock from Richards Micro-fit for around $50. These stocks come with a 13 3/4" pull. Have them install 1" recoil pad to 14 3/4". This cost another $18. Another $10 for shipping and you have a semi-finnished stock for around $80 delivered. Their web site is http://www.rifle-stocks.com/ I like their laminated stocks. Look on their discount and bargian pages if you are working on a budget. Sometimes you get great prices on some nice stocks. I have. Catch you later, The Big Dog | |||
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Thanks for the input all. I am going to try the spacer and recoil pad first. If that doesn't work out I will try the Richards stock. Either way, I am going to set aside money for a new rifle. Another example of the "Get what you want the first time or you won't be satisfied" axiom. | |||
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Hi again Bob, Another option might be to look at Boyd's gunstocks. Their stocks are closer to being a drop-in stock. If you are not handy with wood working tools, Boyd's might be the way to go. I like the styles if the Richard's stocks better and don't mind doing a little fitting. If you don't want to finish your own stock? Boyd's has finished stocks for a good price. I think you can even change the length of pull on the boyd's stocks. Check to see if they can even put on the recoil pad on for you. Their web site is http://www.boydboys.com/ You can get a Bolt trigger for about $35. A bent bolt handle for about $35 on E-Bay. Drill and tap the action for scope for about $45. With your stock, now you have a real nice looking rifle. If you don't like the barrel, you can change it later on. There is nothing wrong with an 7mm or 8mm mauser. If you handload, there is a world of things you can do. I have one Mauser I use strictly for working up wildcats. It's real easy for me to change the barrels on so it is the perfect test rifle for me. Varmint stock, target scope, after market trigger, All I have to do is change barrels. It's a no brainer for me. Catch you later, The Big Dog | |||
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Thanks for the help Big Dog. I think I may be going down a path here towards gunsmithing as a hobby. I will still probably get a nice stock shooter from a manufacturer, but this looks like it will be a tinker gun that I try a bunch of stuff on. Any resources you could point me to that would teach me would be appreciated. | |||
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A final option might be to lengthen the stock using a piece of other mauser stock. Do you have a common gun like a Turk or M48? IF so finding a stock from someone's sporter project won't be a big problem. Figure what length you want with spacers, tape, etc. Then get a junk stock from a gunsmithing shop or wherever. Cut off the old stock behind the take down button toward the butplate. Cut off the doner stock closer to the down button. Splice them together with dowels, epoxy and big drywall screws. Work it down to blend them into a pleasing contour. Should look like a stretched issue mauser. If you do the work well it will not look nasty. Some original military stocks were made of several pieces from the factory. I agree with others in that I will not spend money to create a run of the mill sporter on a common mauser action. It is simply not cost effective. You can get a nice commercial rifle for less. Pre-64 M-70s can be had for what it takes to make a first class mauser out of a military action. For the most part I enjoy my military rifles as is. I have done some P-14 45-70s and other odd stuff though. Turks are an oppertunity to gunsmith a rifle to death and not fear doing damage to anything of monitary value. | |||
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Hi again Bob, If you are looking for a factory rifle at a fair price, check out Savage. They are the most accurate factory rifle on the market at this time. I help a lot of people at the range sighting in their rifles and working up loads for them and Savage always comes out on top. The Savage heavy barrel rifles shoot almost as good as my custom rifles do. Their varmint rifles are very hard to beat. As for rebuilding your Mauser, some of the videos you might want to buy are on order, #1 Supertuning a factory rifle, #2 How to rebarrel, tune, & blueprint a military bolt action rifle, #3 Build your own custom Mauser, I have 1 & 3 and 2 is on order. Midway USA shooters supply has these videos is stock and is a good source for most of your gunsmithing needs. If you need any more help on this subject, click on my name and get my e-mail address and drop me a line. Catch you later, The Big Dog The Big Dog | |||
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Hey Bob, I just got the DVD from Midway on how to rebarrel, tune, & blueprint a military bolt action rifle. Awesome video!!!!!! None of it looks to hard. Look like I'm going to be doing a lot more tinkering with my Mausers. DVD is about $80 but worth every nickle. The tapes #1 and #2 are a must have if you are ever going to be working on your own rifles. A lot of tricks that really help and don't cost much to do. Catch you later, The Big Dog The Big Dog | |||
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