I prefer issue triggers to the aftermarket types. It would be a big help to me in my efforts to improve the triggers if some experienced person(s) could list the tools needed (and sources of same) and instructions as to what to do (and what to avoid doing).Thanks for any help.
dave

I also prefer the original triggers. I use diamond hones, hard Arkansas stones, and ceramic hones. All are available from Brownells. It is usually possible to get the let-off to three pounds. While you can alter the contact angle some, it is important to not go past the point that the trigger will return to full engagement if you release the trigger after taking up the first stage but before firing. Regards, Bill

Do you do anything with the spring, shorten, replace, or do you achieve such a great trigger with polishing the surfaces.
I wonder how felt wheel and polishing compounds would perform the surface treatment

Do you remove any from the total engagement.

I simply used a hard stone on mine. "Trying" not to change the angle.

Using a round wheel makes it hard to leave an nice flat surface. I did attach a nut to the end of the base. Then installed a screw and lock nut to raise the trigger so only the second stage functioned.

I have a whole mix:

1. Huber Concepts on two Mauser (9.3 x 57 and 62)
2. Timneys on a 8x57 and 458 WM
3. Double set trigger (traditional style) on a 7 Mag

Ditched a Kepplinger for a Timney.

Pros and cons to all, but think the Hubers are pretty cool.

quote:

There is a conversion commercially avcailable to do that, but this negates the very nice safety feature of large sear engagement inherit in an issue (double stage) trigger.So...if it's single stage you want, your'e best off just to replace with a well machined single stage trigger such as Recknagel, Timnmey

Actually it was my first Mauser build. Came back and did the trigger probably 3rd year I hunted with it. After I picked up Brownels Gunsmith Kinks I think.

By 4th yr it was sold and from then on I did commercial. Straight out of college with a wife and little one $$ were tight.

I've seen some weird trigger geometry.

flat top
double hump (acts like a 2 stage trigger)
curved top (traditional)

always wonder if you release the trigger (on the double hump) does the sear go back to full engagement , doubtful

The standard Mauser trigger has a double hump at the top of the trigger lever. One can reduce the second hump so that the first hump takes the sear closer to the edge. This is the first step. The second step is to hone the face of the cocking piece so it is smooth. The third step is to hone the contact surface of the sear so it is smooth. The fourth step is to shorten or replace the spring. I have gotten better results by shortening the original spring. I have also tried using two springs (inner and outer) with the inner spring being wound in the opposite direction. In this case the inner spring was short and came into play just before the second stage was reached. The shortend stock spring worked better.
The geometry of the trigger should be such that the striker is cammed rearward about .005 -.006" by the first stage. The trigger should return to full engagement when it is released if the shot is not taken. If it does not, the contact angle is wrong or the spring is too light. I don't like to use any kind of buffing wheel for trigger work and rely on stones. BTW, I tried a Huber Concepts and thought it sucked. JMO. Regards, Bill.

Bill Leeper
Thank you for a very helpful response. I will try to follow your advice.
dave

Bill Leeper.

Thank you for your complete thought out response. I got ya on the buffer for trigger work. Hard stones are slower, likely leave a smoother work and angles are much better controlled.

Much like the use of a Dremel for most any gunsmithing work in your estimation I bet.

I tell people I do a lot of things by hand because it takes more effort to screw something up than using power tools. I'm gambling that I'll get tired before I ruin the job! Regards, Bill.

I was always hesitant on doing the stoning...found Alaska Arms LLC to sell a model 70 2 pc.trigger for a Mauser 98. spendy but nice.

I have a couple of unaltered OE VZ500 single stage triggers. I would trade for something of similar value. I replaced them with Timneys.

I could post PIX if anyone is interested.

Does anyone know of a good step-by-step page with photos, or a video online that shows this? I have worked with Remington and Jewel triggers before, but not Mauser triggers much at all.