I think it will be another month before I get the lathe running. This full time job thing REALLY gets in the way of hobby pursuits. So far I have:

1. New Precision Matthews 1340GT (Taiwan built) lathe. I managed to get it into my garage, on the stand and in its final place. What I have left to do is: get the upgraded control panel and wire it in with the VFD. I still need to clean the cosmoline type protectant off, level the lathe (acquired a Starrett 98-12), install the four-jaw chuck, install the quick change tool post, and probably do a bunch of other stuff I don’t even know yet to do. I have boring tooling, threading tooling, and some care package stuff from Woodhunter—not all of which have figured out.

2. Precision Matthews 727V (Chinese) square column variable speed mill. I have several two and four flute end mills as well as some ball mills, a precision vise, a clamping set, and a collet set. While this is running I still need to clean off the cosmoline type stuff and finish setting it up.

3. I have the South Bend Book, a textbook on machining, a how to (from zero) on chambering and some more advanced chambering/gunsmithing books. I have been going through those.

4. I have two dial indicators that measure .0001, a nice .0005 dial indicator, a couple of decent indicator stands, a center gauge, a 60 degree thread pitch gauge, etc.

5. I have decided to use Gordy Gritters Setup method with the “Grizzly” rods from PTG. The primary purpose of all this is chambering my 1000 yd BR rifle barrels. I will initially get set up for 6mm, 30, and 338 cal. More specifically 6BRA, 308, and 338 Edge.

They won't work too well mounted against the wall that way. Most people put them on the floor.

I don’t follow. Neither machine is against the wall.

subtle......very subtle

right turn Clyde

Roger

quote:

Originally posted by INTJ:
I don’t follow. Neither machine is against the wall.

Only when the pictures are sideways.

All you have to do is bend your head over and it looks right, of course you get a crick in your neck after a while.

Nice start to a home shop! Do these import machines have inch screws or are all the dials metric? What is the spindle bore? Will it be difficult to put a spider on the back side of the spindle? I think you would quickly appreciate a quick change tool post and a set of tool holders.

On the mill I would suggest investing in a DRO. They are very convenient and save a lot of time. A good vice on a mill is worthwhile too.

Have fun and keep us posted!

I think the most important thing that you need is a good mentor.

Hmm. The pictures are oreinted properly on my devices.....

quote:

Originally posted by jpl:
Nice start to a home shop! Do these import machines have inch screws or are all the dials metric? What is the spindle bore? Will it be difficult to put a spider on the back side of the spindle? I think you would quickly appreciate a quick change tool post and a set of tool holders.

On the mill I would suggest investing in a DRO. They are very convenient and save a lot of time. A good vice on a mill is worthwhile too.

Have fun and keep us posted!

The leadscrew and dials are inch. Spindle bore is 1 9/16”. Spiders go on easy.

http://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-1340gt/

quote:

Originally posted by INTJ:
Hmm. The pictures are oreinted properly on my devices.....

Sideways on mine also, but I get the picture.

quote:

Originally posted by butchlambert:
I think the most important thing that you need is a good mentor.

Woodhunter and a couple local LR BR smiths.

Hey Blaine nice to see the machines set up.

When you have mastered the range rod method you will be ready for hopping the indictor stem over the lands and down into the grooves. Butch is the Grand Master of this method.




As I continue to reduce my shop inventory I may be persuaded to let these go.

PS there is a muzzle flush PSI post over on AccurateShooter.com, search it up and do some reading. You do not need a lot of PSI just good flow to wash the chips out. Too much PSI and you will have a mess in the shop and your wife will hate washing your shop clothes. Wear old clothes anytime you are fooling with the machinery and a good shop apron will help.

Don't forget the safety glasses!

Recall the info I sent you about notching the bushing retaining screw on PTG reamers. Doubles the coolant flow.

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
They won't work too well mounted against the wall that way. Most people put them on the floor.

Aargh he lives on the equator, no problem!

quote:

Originally posted by jpl:
Nice start to a home shop! Do these import machines have inch screws or are all the dials metric? What is the spindle bore? Will it be difficult to put a spider on the back side of the spindle? I think you would quickly appreciate a quick change tool post and a set of tool holders.

On the mill I would suggest investing in a DRO. They are very convenient and save a lot of time. A good vice on a mill is worthwhile too.

Have fun and keep us posted!

They are very nice machines, inch dials and leadscrew with very large dials for easy reading.

Blaine has chosen well. And he equipped the lathe with nice tool holders, a quick change, and boring bars. Insert type!


He is well on the way to precision work.

He purchased a nice vise, but he is a married man and avoids vice.

quote:

Originally posted by WoodHunter:

quote:

Originally posted by jpl:
Nice start to a home shop! Do these import machines have inch screws or are all the dials metric? What is the spindle bore? Will it be difficult to put a spider on the back side of the spindle? I think you would quickly appreciate a quick change tool post and a set of tool holders.

On the mill I would suggest investing in a DRO. They are very convenient and save a lot of time. A good vice on a mill is worthwhile too.

Have fun and keep us posted!

They are very nice machines, inch dials and leadscrew with very large dials for easy reading.

Blaine has chosen well. And he equipped the lathe with nice tool holders, a quick change, and boring bars. Insert type!


He is well on the way to precision work.

He purchased a nice vise, but he is a married man and avoids vice.

Looks like he is in good hands.

Butch,

I am intrigue. How do you get a good reading indicating against the lands and grooves?

quote:

Originally posted by INTJ:
Butch,

I am intrigue. How do you get a good reading indicating against the lands and grooves?

I do chamber in the headstock. I have Deltronic pins in .0001 increments for each caliber. I have a 25 piece set for each caliber. My first measurement is on a Deltronic pin on either end. I drill about .030" in diameter and .100 short. I can then use my 513-504T Mitutoyo indicator to reach in and indicate the throat. It is a .0001 indicator that has a long slim housing that allows it to go inside a small diameter hole.
https://ecatalog.mitutoyo.com/...eries-513-C1784.aspx
You will be able to reach about 1.650". You can do this method for longer cartridges, just stop your drill short. The indicator comes with different size balls on them. Use the largest that will drop down into the groove.I use a micro solid carbide boring bar to take a skim cut to make sure the hole is concentric to the indicated bore. I do taper bore with the compound. It is time to run the reamer in and finish your chamber.
I have an Interapid indicator with the long probe and do not like it when indicating lands and grooves. Too jumpy.

A very good start indeed! The 1340 is more than enough lathe. With VFD, you'll have great versatility.

Fantastic my friend! I think you're off to a great start, especially with those mentors.

I watched a whole bunch of you tube when I was getting started, gotta separate the "wheat from the chaff" though......

Best of luck to you in your new endeavor, you will have fun.

.

quote:

When you have mastered the range rod method

The rods I want to use are not range rods. Dave Kiff has calls them “Grizzly Rods” and they are not tapered. Gordy uses them to check both ends of the chamber.