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posted
Does Hornady One Shot spray resizing lub work
well as a release agent, when using it to glass bed a rifle?
Thank You
 
Posts: 21 | Registered: 30 November 2009Reply With Quote
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Works as good as anything.


"There always seems to be a big market for making the clear, complex."
 
Posts: 1372 | Location: USA | Registered: 18 June 2000Reply With Quote
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I WOULDN'T USE ANY OF THAT !!!.

Mose lubes contain Lanolin USE a paste wax apply two or three coats wiping between coats to insure clean

through coverage . You'll be GLAD you did !!!.

archer archer archer
 
Posts: 4485 | Location: Planet Earth | Registered: 17 October 2008Reply With Quote
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Picture of Tapper2
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Use Brownell's release agent. It works better than anything else I have tried. It's in a spray so you cover everything. When using wax I always seem to miss a little somewhere. Never have had a problem with Brownell's spray....Tom


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Posts: 654 | Location: Denver, Iowa | Registered: 10 June 2009Reply With Quote
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Johnson's paste wax. If you want, it can be thinned down with mineral spirits and brushed on. That way you'll get it into all the nooks, crannies, cracks, and crevices.
 
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002Reply With Quote
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I have used automotive paste wax, Birchwood Casey stock wax, and Brownells blue stuff that they send with the epoxy. I like the liquid wax the best. As Tapper2 said, brush it on, make sure everything is coated and go for it. The Brownells stuff works great but it is a bitch to clean up. DW
 
Posts: 1016 | Location: Happy Valley, Utah | Registered: 13 October 2006Reply With Quote
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The Brownells release agent comes RIGHT off with spray Rem oil and a paper towel. And paste wax comes off easy with spray Rem oil and 4x steel wool.
 
Posts: 460 | Location: Auburn CA. | Registered: 25 March 2007Reply With Quote
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May I ask why anyone is resorting to Steel wool for removing wax from the actions ?.

Removing the wax from a properly prepared waxed action ,after the bedding is completed ,shouldn't

require anything more than either lacquer thinner or paint thinner followed by a light coating of oil

on the metal .

Are some of you applying wax and Leaving the wax on without wiping it off ?.

Like applying paste wax too a vehicle and not buffing it off once the carrier solvents have dried ?.


Wax the action just like a fine Auto and do it # 3 times wiping with a soft dry rag each time .

You can eliminate that steel wool nonsense altogether . archer archer archer
 
Posts: 4485 | Location: Planet Earth | Registered: 17 October 2008Reply With Quote
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Automotive paste wax works better than anything I have used.


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Shoot & hunt with vintage classics.
 
Posts: 9487 | Location: Texas Hill Country | Registered: 11 January 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of kcstott
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Being in injection molding I have access to a lot of mold releases But that said I would not glue my action in a stock without something I trusted. The brownells stuff works great. Then there's anything Doc recommends. Other then that use at you own risk


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Posts: 2534 | Location: National City CA | Registered: 15 December 2008Reply With Quote
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Another vote for Johnson's paste wax.
Never had a problem with it and it seems to go on "thinner" than any of the waxy or greasy release agents.
 
Posts: 716 | Location: Tucson, AZ | Registered: 22 August 2002Reply With Quote
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Picture of Sevens
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I use Minwax Paste Wax, has worked great so far. I rub it on a couple times and don't buff the last coat. Also works great for preventing rust on the rifle.


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Posts: 2789 | Location: Dallas, TX | Registered: 27 January 2004Reply With Quote
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