I'm going to try a couple of these on a Savage and was wondering how accurate they are?Thanx

My 350 Rigby has an A&B barrel, and it'll group 3 into 5/8" when I do my part. That said, it was originally a 35 whelen AI, and it struggled to put 3 into 1 1/2". After a re-chamber and re-crown, it really shoots now. That said, they are very rough and are near impossible to remove all the copper from them.

I think with the savage system, they provide a real affordable way to try various calibers.

I've heard the same thing about their barrels.

Dan

Adams&Bennett barrels are made by E.R.Shaw who make very good barrels. these are Made exclusively for Midway and the Adams&Bennett logo is a Midway logo. ok barrel but a little on the rough side, in the bore. i ended up Fire-Lapping mine to smooth it out and it shoots pretty good now and doesn't foul quite as bad. HTH
Rick

[ 01-28-2003, 08:16: Message edited by: Rick from Kalifornia ]

I have had good luck with the only A&B barrel Iv'e had . It was on a 22-250Imp. .5" group[s until about 3500rds then it opened up quite a bit. It was a stainless fluted one. Since then I have moved up (i think) to shilen and pac nor

3500 rounds, outta 22/250. Why shucks . set
her back a turn an goffer 7000!
Really I don't think 3500 rounds would even
break in a HIdollar barrel.LOL
My A&B still spits where I point it.
Damn the luck.(hehehe,harhar)

I've got one on a Mauser in 7X57 and it shoots very well. I'm happy with it.

I was considering getting a used lefty 110 and getting a 416 Taylor barrel (one is in stock at Midway now) but have a feeling that the end product will weigh MAYBE 8 lbs at most, since most 110s are pretty light to start with. I feel this will be the cheapest way to get into a big bore, i.e. less than 500 smackers. I would consider CZ except they slight us poor guys who must shoot left handed. What do you guys think?

WW,

It sounds like fun (until it comes time to clean the copper fouling out of the bore ).

You are going to have to reinforce that Savage stock with cross-bolts and steel bedding if you're going to shoot it much with full-power loads.
What cartridge is the 110 currently chambered for? You might need other parts as well.

George

[ 01-30-2003, 01:04: Message edited by: GeorgeS ]

Hi George:

The 110 comes in 7mm Rem, 300 Win, and 338 Win. Any of these will convert easily, as they have the same bolt head size. I have been looking into these conversions for a while, but no one has advised beefing up the stock, but no one I read has done the Taylor yet either. Point taken. Could there be any method to help the roughness before fouling it up?

I have two of these barrels for my Savage 110. One is a 220 Swift and the other is a 416 Taylor. The Swift barrel has only had less that 40 shots through it and only cleaned twice ( sorry to all you die hard one shot clean break-in fellas) so it's not really broken in yet. Regardless it has yet to print a group larger than .8". With my 40gr sierras if I do my part almost all holes are touching, around 1/2". Not bad seeing as how it was -10 and I was wearing a parka and gloves and couldn't feel half my fingers. I have never officialy measured any groups with my Taylor but it seems to shoot around 1 - 1/14" but I don't like to shoot off the bench a lot with big bores. No matter what anyone tells you that is great accuracy for anything you'll need a big bore for. I'mm still using the original factory walnut stock with my Taylor and it hasn't split in two yet, although I do plan on a Laminate later, but more for weight and appearance. As is with the Taylor barreled 110 less scope weighs in around 8 pounds like you guessed. Hope I was able to help you out.

Thanks, NB. Fer sure also sounds like a rifle you would like to carry a lot and shoot a little. Just might go to plan B and get a 338-06 barrel instead. Dies and brass are much cheaper. If someone has a more economical way to get into a left handed bolt action big bore I'm all ears.

[ 01-30-2003, 06:29: Message edited by: W. Wilson ]

WOLFER,
I have one in 22-250 stainless steel and it shoots 1.5" 10 shot groups at 200 yards so far and I have only put a little over 300 rounds through it. My barrel unlike some of the previous posts has no problem with fouling, it cleans very easy with only a few strokes with a bronze brush after every 10 to 20 rounds fired. I did break it in the usual way by fireing 1 round clean between rounds for 5 rounds,fireing 2 rounds clean between rounds for 10 rounds,then fireing 5 round groups then clean between rounds for 5 groups. This may have smoothed my barrel up and keeps it from fouling.
Albert

Hi WW,

I had a 110L .338 that I was contemplating turning into a .458, but it wouldn't have CRF so I sold it (and got a LH M-70 .470 Capstick instead).

Lapping the bore with a lead lap and abrasive will help, but the best way to avoid heavy copper fouling is to buy a better grade barrel than an A&B. A Douglas XX would be the minimum grade I'd use on a gun I expected any decent performance out of, but most of my barrels are Shilen.

BTW, firelapping will remove some of the throat as well as the bore's roughness, so use this method judiciously, if at all.

George

I'm working on a synthetic stock Savage 111 with an Adams and Bennett 416 Taylor barrel right now. I put a 3/8" allthread stiffener in the barrel channel with J&B and used a little to bed the recoil lug receiver area and tang. I sent the receiver to Sharp Shooters to be faced and installed on of his better ground recoil lugs. It made a difference in the accuracy of the original 30-06 barrel.

I started with Win 458 mag cases but didn't like the way they were forming. Out of 50 cases 10 ended up having to be trimmed to 2.460" to clean up the wrinkled crinkles in the ends or collapsed.

I went to Remington 416 Rem Mag and they formed great. I made a chamber cast to get the measurement of the chamber and found I could get away with a 2.515" long case with no problem. The Rems weighed 247.5 ave and the Wins 231.0. The necks could clean up at 0.0125 with the Rems and the Win at 0.0105 so the Rem fit my chamber closer.

I started with a load of 70/RL-15, Rem9 1/2M, Speer 350 MagTips, Remington brass seated at 3.42" 0.020" less than the Savage chamber which puts the base of the bullet even with the neck junction. The Speer MagTips touch the lands at 3.66" so I have a nice jump. I haven't tried any other bullet so far to see how they fare.

I increased to 71, 73 and 74 gr. The cases shortened each time but less each time until at 74gr I only lost 0.002" I found this to happen with almost every caliber I have played with. The closer you get to max the more you need to look at all the little things that can happen. I also headspaced on the shoulder and set my reloading dies so a case would just chamber with a little pressure. I use a Stoney comparator to check the length of a full sized case with all the slop taken out of the rockchucker ram and one the just chambers and it was 0.002" difference so the dies and the chamber match well. This is not the case usually.

At 74grs the ring in front of the belt had increased from 0.508 to 0.511, the primers had progressively flattened and the case shortened less with each firing. As soon as it quits raining I will get it on the chronograph to see where I stand. With the difference in weight between the Rem and the Win brass I may be near the end. I will try one at 75gr to see. The bolt lift is OK but from what I have read above 75gr the accuracy falls off and you don't get much more velocity but time will tell for this rifle.

I haven't seen anymore cleaning problems with this barrel than with any other that hasn't been lapped. I used Flitz for 50 strokes before firing the first round, then use Osso, or USP bore paste along with Montana or Bore Brite for cleaning and Wipe-Out takes out all the brass stripes.

Don't let any one know just how easy it is to swap barrels or other components and just how accurate the Savage rifles shoot. I don't want it to get around, this is insider knowledge.

I will agree with the comments on how easy it is to swap barrels on a Savage; the first time I did it, it took five minutes. After the first change, there is no need to crank the barrel nut down beastly tight either -- for subsequent changes I'm wondering if I'll even need the barrel wrench. Just be sure to put some good antiseize compound on the barrel threads and inside the nut.

I have used several A&B barrels, and haven't had major problems with fouling. I wouldn't say they fouled any more than the original Savage barrel (my 110 is the only factory new gun I own). They shoot very well, in all honesty probably have better accuracy potential than I do. I heartily endorse the Taylor, and if that's what you're looking for, you should get that and not the 338.

Todd

Todd, it seems that getting the factory barrel off is easier on some than on others. In my case, it was on beastly tight on one, and I had to call in the reserves (gunsmith) with an action vise.

For anyone who is contemplating to do a switch job once or so, just take it to a smith to take it off. Mine wanted to charge me $5.00 for the job, made him take 10. FWIW, Dutch.

I bought allot of A&B barrels before I used one.
The .308 stainless fluted is ok ~1.5"

The .243 barrel blank fired one fouling shot, three touching, and by then was so fouled it need an hour of cleaning. The bore is so rough, it is like an inside out file.

Never again.

I have been buying Shilen and Lothar Walthar, and from now on, only factory hand lapped barrels are worth my time.