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Re-marking a barrel
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When you re-chamber a barrel, what is your preferred method of marking the new cartridge information and removing the previous info?

Particularly one where you have to maintain the original indexing on the action for the sights or quarter rib to align correctly. i.e. you can't rotate the old stamp below the stock line.

I can think of a couple of ways, but what looks best/professional?

Jeremy
 
Posts: 1484 | Location: Indiana | Registered: 28 January 2011Reply With Quote
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Using a small end mill, I remove the original markings then stamp the new mark in the same place.


John Farner

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Posts: 2949 | Location: Corrales, NM, USA | Registered: 07 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Yep; that way. I engrave instead of stamp though. If they aren't too deep you can grind them off and contour the area to match the contour as best you can. Reblue.
 
Posts: 17480 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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A new take off Ruger barrel, 338 WM. I installed it on a tang safety action.

Did not like the stamped safety warnings, beside the barrel needed 0.005 setback to correct headspace. So I ground all the markings off.



Made this slack belt grinder around 30 years ago, it is handy for lots of tasks in the shop. Variable speed DC motor with a controllable power supply, change the speed by turning a knob. Forward and reverse on the grinder motor, so I can run the belt in opposite direction as the barrel for both improved grinding and plume control. Shop vac sucks up all the dust and grinding mess. The grinding plum goes directly into the vacuum hose. 80 Grit Norton belt.





Final grind, no markings!!!! Barrel was bead blasted in prep for a matt rust blue. Caliber markings put on with an engraver.

 
Posts: 1474 | Location: Running With The Hounds | Registered: 28 April 2011Reply With Quote
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A small end mill operation was one of the ways I was considering.

I also was thinking of taking a shallow side mill cut the length of the cylinder section, and blending that in.

This barrel is cerakoted, and needs to be bead blasted for refinishing anyway.

I figured someone might have a unique way they do it.

Woodhunter, I like that setup for barrel cleanup. It will take off too much material for my need, I think.

Jeremy
 
Posts: 1484 | Location: Indiana | Registered: 28 January 2011Reply With Quote
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One way, by Dorleac of France. BBK602 rifle converted from 358 Norma to 404 Jeffery.

http://forums.nitroexpress.com...&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1
 
Posts: 1474 | Location: Running With The Hounds | Registered: 28 April 2011Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by farbedo:
A small end mill operation was one of the ways I was considering.

I also was thinking of taking a shallow side mill cut the length of the cylinder section, and blending that in.

This barrel is cerakoted, and needs to be bead blasted for refinishing anyway.

I figured someone might have a unique way they do it.

Woodhunter, I like that setup for barrel cleanup. It will take off too much material for my need, I think.

Jeremy


Takes off only a few thousandths. If the original markings are on the straight section of the barrel shank I only grind the barrel shank. You will remove very little metal.
 
Posts: 1474 | Location: Running With The Hounds | Registered: 28 April 2011Reply With Quote
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If you are looking for something that is unique and looks "original" remove the old caliber designation with the side of a large end mill. This will leave a flat with tapered end. Have the new caliber engraved along with the edge of the new flat.
 
Posts: 161 | Location: Dallas area | Registered: 07 October 2012Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by WoodHunter:
quote:
Originally posted by farbedo:
A small end mill operation was one of the ways I was considering.

I also was thinking of taking a shallow side mill cut the length of the cylinder section, and blending that in.

This barrel is cerakoted, and needs to be bead blasted for refinishing anyway.

I figured someone might have a unique way they do it.

Woodhunter, I like that setup for barrel cleanup. It will take off too much material for my need, I think.

Jeremy


Takes off only a few thousandths. If the original markings are on the straight section of the barrel shank I only grind the barrel shank. You will remove very little metal.


I once bought a rifle online that had 2 chamber markings. A gunsmith verified what it was, then removed .015" from the barrel diameter to get rid of the incorrect marking. (.0075" deep plus a little polishing. )
 
Posts: 7672 | Location: near Austin, Texas, USA | Registered: 15 December 2000Reply With Quote
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My concern is if it affects the wood to metal fit. The barrel that raised this question is well inlet.


Jeremy
 
Posts: 1484 | Location: Indiana | Registered: 28 January 2011Reply With Quote
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