Hi Guys
I am rebluing a rather rare Zi Di hornet from Suhl in the thirties.There are one or two pits which Im concerned about. They are small and shallow but in the white the staining from them is more than you would expect after only a week or so.This is despite the area being covered in oil.
My question is : will rust bluing and curing of the rust process fix the pitting?
I should say the pitting is on the action.Would I have to sand blast the pitting before rust bluing?
Thanks in advance

I would sand blast for sure. Low pressure small grit. The boiling might convert all the rust, or it might not. It's not worth the risk.

Is it not possible to dress the offending area down with stones or sand paper?

Maybe sodablasting is a better alternative.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodablasting

Possibly tig and dress? There are myriad talented welders out there. Just an idea, did not say a good one.

Luck,

Stephen

I believe when using sand blaster with very fine glass it appears like a vapor blast, like what's on a Colt Gold Cup slide. There is a welding process called Laser which is ecellent for things like pits.

Laser or micro weld depending on how much you want to throw at it.

If you are going to re blue the action having the action blasted with a fine media NOT SAND will help remove any foreign material. I would still boil and neutralize just like hot salt bluing.

When repairing an action that has had pitting, given no obstructions, grind a small divot where the pit is with a carbide bur eliminating any "cancer". Then draw a puddle to even it out and build up with filler.

Dear Miers:

What I've done with a bit of a rusty Mauser receiver, is to hit the whole thing a few times with Naval Jelly. It will pickle all that rust. Make sure that you use an old tooth brush to work the naval jelly into the pitting itself. Do the entire action. But before you do, fully degrease it. I use non-chlronated brake cleaner. Naval Jelly will not remove grease or oil.

Also, between applications hit the action with boiling or really hot water. It will open up the steel grain, and you'll be amazed what that naval jelly pulls out.

On the last application use distilled water, so that you don't have a mineral film left on the steel before you rust blue. That mineral film will screw up your rust bluing.

The advice others posted above is great after you have prepped and removed all that rust with Naval Jelly.

In the past, I used wire wheels to zip off the rust. It doesn't work. I found that when rust bluing later in boiling water some of those old pits opened up and left a nice mess. Old hot salts bluing can cause pitting, too, when it reacts with rust bluing chemicals. The old hot salts bluing will show up as a white to blue cast which looks like a phosphate finish after the Naval Jelly reacts with it.

So, again, preparation is where you want to spend your time.

Sincerely,

Chris Bemis

All are good recommendations.

Thanks

Stephen

Wow!Thank you all so much , guys.That is terrific advice.Im relieved I sought advice here before ploughing ahead and then being disappointed.I think I will begin with Chris naval jelly and go from there.
Thanks again