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Cleaning up checkering
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Picture of Sniper
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I'm sure this topic has been beat around 100 or so times but hey what they heck might as well make it 101.

What would ya'll recommend for starters on learning how to clean up and recut checkering when refinishing a stock..tools, etc.,
 
Posts: 888 | Location: Tennessee, USA | Registered: 11 January 2004Reply With Quote
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It has been beat up here a bit; check some of the past posts. I have done several refinish/clean-ups and have settled on the Dorian (sp?) carbide tools; they seem to last forever. I like the 'pull' tool for cleaning up old checkering along with a 'see thru' handle (Brownells). One problem I haven't solved adequately is getting into the really tight places where the lines are very short. Maybe some of the heavy hitters that haunt this site could give us some help here?
C.G.B.
 
Posts: 238 | Location: Colorado | Registered: 05 June 2001Reply With Quote
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All you need is a single line checkering tool. You can get one for about ten bucks from Brownells. Get a fine tooth for finishing.
 
Posts: 10192 | Location: Tooele, Ut | Registered: 27 September 2001Reply With Quote
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"One problem I haven't solved adequately is getting into the really tight places where the lines are very short."

Use a veining tool.
 
Posts: 813 | Location: Left Coast | Registered: 02 November 2000Reply With Quote
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Is a veining tools just small sharp v chisel and if so is it sensitive to grain direction?
Thanks.
C.G.B.
 
Posts: 238 | Location: Colorado | Registered: 05 June 2001Reply With Quote
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Yes. If it is sharp the grain direction is not a big factor. Getting it to run stright is tougher. Be aware of the direction you push it and how deep you are going.
 
Posts: 813 | Location: Left Coast | Registered: 02 November 2000Reply With Quote
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I like using the 1/4" or so long v-tool for tight spots.


[url="http://www.hunt101.com/?p=121940&c=544&z=1"][/url]


But I'm still learning.......DJ
 
Posts: 3976 | Location: Oklahoma,USA | Registered: 27 February 2004Reply With Quote
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DJ

That is a nice looking piece of work. Keep it up and keep the pics coming.
 
Posts: 1634 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 29 December 2002Reply With Quote
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DJ

I agree that you have shown a very nice looking piece of work (and I would go so far as to state that I would not be qualifed to comment on how good it is because I don't checker)

But what I wanted to ask about from an aesthetic point of view (because I know you built the stock) is why (and I am not saying it is right or wrong or anything for that matter) you leave that Winchester rear tang in its full configureation (if that is a word).
I have seen them where the rear tang is reshaped with some of that metal removed. What is your view on that?

Blue
 
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Blue, This is my third rifle that I've restocked (I've checkered a dozen or so). I've been trying to do one or two new things per rifles as I learn to make custom stocks. Reshaped tangs are something that I may try in the future......DJ
 
Posts: 3976 | Location: Oklahoma,USA | Registered: 27 February 2004Reply With Quote
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dj,
Rest assured, you did a great job on that stock. Can't see what the one gentleman said since **** You are ignoring this user **** keeps popping up for his posts. I like your finish, your checkering, the shape of the stock. Great job
 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
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When it comes to getting in the really tight spots I use a Dem Bart Veigning tool or a 400,000 RPM engraving tool with a small carbide cutter.
 
Posts: 28849 | Location: western Nebraska | Registered: 27 May 2003Reply With Quote
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Vapodog, I use a veiner also. Dont know how I would do otherwise in those tight corners.
 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
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Nice looking rifle. Thanks for the info.
 
Posts: 888 | Location: Tennessee, USA | Registered: 11 January 2004Reply With Quote
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