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| I have used both a few times each and prefer Pilkingtons better, not sure why but that is the way it worked out. Steve............
NRA Patron Life Member
GOA Life Member
North American Hunting Club Life Member
USAF Veteran
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| Take a cap full of LMF Brown and Degreaser and add it to a full bottle of Pilkington's and it will go on very smooth with little to no spotting. Hope that helps. |
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| Both Gun Goddess and Laurel Mtn Brown and Degreaser are excellent.
If It Doesn't Feed, It's Junk.
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| | | Posts: 408 | Location: Sechelt, B.C., Canada | Registered: 11 December 2001 | 
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| I've used Pilkington's, Brownells, and Laurel Mountain. I've found Laurel Mountain to be very forgiving and I don't plan on ever using anything else.
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| | | Posts: 361 | Location: Missouri | Registered: 09 July 2008 |
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| I use nothing but RustBlue from Bobster. Others don't work as well for me. He makes several different formulas; I use the American type.
I have used others, and don't plan to use them again although I have bottles of them on my shelf. |
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| Having moved around the US a bit, I have the feeling that what works in Wyoming may not work as well in Washington.
Best bet is to try them all, but the greatest obstacle is getting that metal squeaky clean and .... always use distilled water |
| | | Posts: 3671 | Location: Phone: (253) 535-0066 / (253) 230-5599, Address: PO Box 822 Spanaway WA 98387 | www.customgunandrifle.com | Registered: 16 April 2013 |
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| I like RustBlue from Bobster too. Swiss and American are the quickest, quite black, tried some of the others, a little less aggressive and a bit more blue grey, gotta expirement to see what works best for you. |
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| I think technique (cleanliness) and humidity control are more important than the actual solution. It is easy to make steel rust if conditions are right, and hard if they are not. Turning it black is the easy part. (Steaming for me) Or boiling.
True, location is very important if you don't have a damp box, even summer and winter require different techniques.
But if you live in a place with low humidity you will never be able to rust blue without a damp box. |
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| quote: Originally posted by dpcd:
I think technique (cleanliness) and humidity control are more important than the actual solution. It is easy to make steel rust if conditions are right, and hard if they are not. Turning it black is the easy part. (Steaming for me) Or boiling.
True, location is very important if you don't have a damp box, even summer and winter require different techniques.
But if you live in a place with low humidity you will never be able to rust blue without a damp box.
I live in a Pacific NW Rainforest. 2 miles from salt water. Leave bare steel out on the carport and rusts takes over quickly. I will build a damp box for those odd times in the summer when it does not rain! |
| | | Posts: 1473 | Location: Running With The Hounds | Registered: 28 April 2011 |
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| quote: Originally posted by craigster: Bobster's products work great ! http://www.rustblue.com/
Ditto!
Doug Wilhelmi
NRA Life Member
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| | | Posts: 7503 | Location: Texas Hill Country | Registered: 15 October 2013 |
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| quote: Originally posted by Dulltool17: quote: Originally posted by craigster: Bobster's products work great ! http://www.rustblue.com/
Ditto!
I looked at the site, some good info. I guess I will try several over the next few months and see how the guns turn out. |
| | | Posts: 1473 | Location: Running With The Hounds | Registered: 28 April 2011 |
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| The best rust bluers I have known do it every day of their lives, ocassional rust bluers usually have a fight on their hands..Its dirty, aggravating. makes me cranky and Im slower than a mole getting it done..Its so much easier to ship it out to the experts.
Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120
rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
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| | | Posts: 42232 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000 |
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| +1 on the slow and aggravating comment, spent many hours when I worked in the Browning Arms Gunsmithing Shop hot water bluing Superposed barrels. It was a very tempermental unforgiving process. We used Herter's Rust Blue Solution at that time (1978-1982). |
| | | Posts: 412 | Location: Indiana | Registered: 22 November 2015 |
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| Don't forget to de-grease your steel wool before you rub it down. Steel wool is covered in preservative oil and if you don't believe me hang some on a tree branch sometime outside and set it on fire with a lighter! That's not steel burning in front of your eyes--its petroleum!
Degrease your steel wool! |
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| quote: Originally posted by KY Nimrod:
Don't forget to de-grease your steel wool before you rub it down. Steel wool is covered in preservative oil and if you don't believe me hang some on a tree branch sometime outside and set it on fire with a lighter! That's not steel burning in front of your eyes--its petroleum!
Degrease your steel wool!
Steel Wool: When I was in the Boy Scouts (about a hundred years ago!) we used steel wool for tinder when playing with flint and steel for fire starting. I will use the ultra fine stainless steel carding wheel from Brownells. Arrived two days ago. Thanks to Les Brooks for the tip! |
| | | Posts: 1473 | Location: Running With The Hounds | Registered: 28 April 2011 |
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| NYC tap water works great. I did two with Pilkington, took 6-7 coats. oh and yes hair/wire wheel. |
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| Best to not use steel wool, use a cording wheel and keep it clean..you supposedly can remove the oil out of steel wool with teckticolorid but why mess with it..
Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120
rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
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| | | Posts: 42232 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000 |
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