By serial number or some other marking, is there a best quality Swede Model 96 action in terms of fit, finish, hardness of steel, etc. ?

the reason why I ask is because with the shortage of small ring Model 98 actions, it would seem that the 96 Swede would be a very viable alternative if it could be made to work like a 98 action, and it appears from Ed Lapour's website that his Speedlock safety converstion for the 96 make the 96 work as a cock on opening action just like a model 98 with a shorter lock time due to a different cocking piece.

Has anyone tried this combination, and if so, how do you like it. Seems like a Swede 96 with a 20 inch barrel in 6.5 X55 would be just the ticket for woodland hunting of Whitetails?

I heve several swede m96s. Huskys and Gustafs

One I built from scratch with a new 1943 husqvarna reciever. bolt , new carl gustaf barrel cut to 22", gustaf bottom metal, Jack Belk did the bolt knob ,DT,true,lap,barrel install. Its has a black walnut classic pattern open grip stock and is one of my most accurate rifle. killer whitetail gun.

They are all superb.

-Spencer

I can't speak for Ed LaPour's kits other than Jim Wisner supports Ed and I think a good deal of Wisner's reputation and opinion. What I can attest to is what other's have just said; there are no "bad" Swedes.

22WRF:

The best pure 96 action in my opinion is the commercial Husqvarna action (aka "strengthened" ). It does not have the thumb cut or clip slot, has a high wall on the receiver opposite the bolt handle, but otherwise is pure 96.

Now, the rifle you are describing is the Husqvarna lightweight model sold from 1954 to 1968. It uses the Husqvarna "improved mauser action" (aka HVA or 1640), has a 20.75" (52 cm) barrel and weighs in at about 6.5lbs. The action is basically a 96 (small ring) redesigned to 98 standards. It was available in a number of different configurations/models: 4000 - monte carlo stock; 4100 - straight comb stock; 7000 Imperial - higer grade of 4000; Smith & Wesson models B and C; and also in fullstock (mannlicher) models 456 and 458 and S&W models D and E;

It was produced in a number of different calibers: .243, 6.5x55, .270, 7x57, .308, .30-06. They typically sell used for $400 to $1200 depending on model, caliber, and condition.

22 WRF.

The speed lock that Ed Lapour is currently making, I designed in the early 90's.

Basicly I took a M70 cocking cam and made new cocking pieces and transfered the specs into the Swede 96 bolt. You have about .300 firing pin fall and use a 26 pound firing pin spring.
This cocking cam depth does not undercut the bolt handle as much as the other two that is being made.

I sold a whole lot of them when I was making them.

Just think about what it takes to machine the three recesses in the cocking piece, and then the two slots for the pin to go into.

I have personal family rifles with this system in use now for over 9 years now with no problems.

FYI. It is possible to have the large ring 98 action front ring sides cut down to small ring.
This was a common custom job in the 80's. The side are machined down to blend in with the side wall. Then the top left the Large ring, and the new sides blended into the scope base.
I currently am working on a Yugo 24/47 for the neice and will do that to keep the rifle more trim.

Jim Wisner
Custom Metalsmith

Do any of you have the link to Ed Lapours website?, I've tried several searches and don't find it.
I've got a 96 I'd like to convert to cock on opening and maybe a swing safety.
Sorry not trying to hijack the thread but a couple of you mentioned his website.
Thanks

Have a look here: http://www.pettsons.net

Regards,

Fritz

quote:

I currently am working on a Yugo 24/47 for the neice and will do that to keep the rifle more trim.

Jim,

When you get that done would you post some pictures of that, I would be very interested to see how that turns out.

quote:

Originally posted by J Wisner:
22 WRF.

You have about .300 firing pin fall and use a 26 pound firing pin spring.


Jim Wisner
Custom Metalsmith

Maybe a beginners question but how does firing pin fall relate to pin protrusion, if at all?


Thanks, Rob

RR

Sitting here looking at one of my mauser actions, it would appear that they are not related. firing pin fall is dictated by how long or short the sear is cut on the cocking piece, whereas firing pin protrusion would be determined by how long the firing pin is. So for example, you could add a weld to the tip of a firing pin to make it protrude father out, but that would not change its fall. But you could change its fall by cutting some metal off the sear thereby making the fall shorter and therefore quicker.

I know that pin protrusion is a function of the length but isn't it also determined by the depth of the cocking piece over the shroud. Pin protrusion is lengthend by milling out the cocking piece?

RR

I am not a gunsmith, and you are probably correct. However, in looking at it, it seems that there is a stop so that at some point if you shortened the cocking piece you wouldn't get any further protrusion becasue the stop would stop it from going any further. Does that make sense?

Can you tell us the benefits to using this action compared to a M/38 M/96, or a Mod 46? I still want to use one of these actions for my custom, possibly, and would like to know.

Model 46



640 with 'strengthened' 96 action



640 M/98 without thumbcut, and a 146 M/98 with thumbcut



If I am just using the 6.5X55SE would I really need the M/98, or would the slick, petite little 96 do the job as seen in the 46 and 640. If so, which one, the 46 traditional M/96_38 or the 640 with the modern 'strengthened' version action?????????

Okay, excuse my ignorance, but I just sat and fondled my little rifle below and I have never handled a M/98 that was this smooth. I do not think this all matching number rifle was ever used. The action still has slight machine marks including the loading ramp without any indication of use inside. This is what I want to feel in my custom!!!!