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Replacing forearm on Remington 870
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I picked up a Ram-Line synthetic stock recently, and to remove the forearm the instructions state: (after removing barrel)

"4. Using a slothead screwdriver in the slots of the forearm retaining nut, remove the forearm stock retaining nut from the slider tube."

If this retaining nut is what I think it is, it appears that it is designed to be removed by a specialized spanner of some sort. (two slots on opposite sides) It seems that it would be difficult to generate any kind of torque using the screw driver - as essentially a pry bar - without the risk of slipping, skinning knuckles, gouging work piece and cussing.

Anybody have any hints or suggestions?
 
Posts: 1138 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 07 September 2005Reply With Quote
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I just finished putting one of those on for a clent.

You need to remove the forend from the action. Inside of the action, the bottom part, if you look at where the slide bars come through the action, there is a stop on the right side that won't allow the slide to move forward. You need to depress that and pull the slide forward and off the magazine tube.

Next, make yourself a spanner wrench of a piece of flat bar that is as wide as the diameter of the nut and you may need to mill or grind it down so it fits the grooves in the nut. I turn it with a crescent wrench to get it loose. You can then pull it off and replace it with the part you have.

When you put it back together, you need to depress the thingy on both sides of the action for both slide bars.

Simple?


Jim Kobe
10841 Oxborough Ave So
Bloomington MN 55437
952.884.6031
Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild

 
Posts: 5531 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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Thanks Jim. I suspected that I may have to make a tool. The instructions seemed a little vague. Do you happen to have a picture of the tool you use?
 
Posts: 1138 | Location: Washington State | Registered: 07 September 2005Reply With Quote
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I had one a buddy made for me but gave it away.

The quickest thing is to machine a flat piece of steel that would be about 3 inches long and the width would be the outer diameter of the retaining nut. The thickness would of course be the dimension of the slots in the retaining nut

You can then drop the steel into the retaining nut slots like a large screwdriver bit spanning the retaining nut and clamp on to the top with vise grips and voila.

If you have steel stock that is slightly thicker that is even better because you can just machine the last 3/8 of inch or so whatever the depth of the the retaining nut slots are and the the top of your tool will rest on the top of the retaining nut.

If you want to get fancy use even a wider piece of steel and machine a t-handle top right into the oversized screwdriver bit you just created.


Mike

Legistine actu quod scripsi?

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What I have learned on AR, since 2001:
1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken.
2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps.
3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges.
4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down.
5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine.
6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle.
7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions.
8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA.
9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not.
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11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores.
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13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances.
 
Posts: 10164 | Location: Loving retirement in Boise, ID | Registered: 16 December 2003Reply With Quote
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I always do stuff the hard way. It must make a better impression on my brain to do it that way. I made mine out of a scrap piece of stainless tubing, then cut the teeth in it. Don't remember how I cut the teeth but I know the method you guys are describing is easier. It think I just filed some notches in it. DW
 
Posts: 1016 | Location: Happy Valley, Utah | Registered: 13 October 2006Reply With Quote
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Posts: 283 | Location: SW Oregon | Registered: 12 June 2004Reply With Quote
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I removed the nut once with 2 screwdrivers clamped with a pair of vise grips. It worked well enough and did not mar the nut or the stock, but I only had to do it once and the nut was not that stuck.


for every hour in front of the computer you should have 3 hours outside
 
Posts: 7776 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000Reply With Quote
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Every 870 comes with its own fore end nut wrench. Here's how to use it


Steve Rose
----------
Rose Action Sports, LLC
www.roseactionsports.com
 
Posts: 189 | Location: Western Kentucky | Registered: 02 November 2007Reply With Quote
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