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I am about to start the 4th coat of rust blue solution on a Pre Garcia Sako .243 that I spent the better part of the winter polishing (it was someone's 'truck gun')... I am using Mark Lee #3 Slow Rust Blue which I believe is a nitric acid/nitrosyl chloride blend- it's kind of day glo green yellow. No damp box- just rusting in free air in my den which should be temp and humidity controlled like the rest of the house. I've done this before with very presentable results. Anyway, I already have the excellent rich blue black color after three coats. However, the receiver is etching deeper than the barrel and spots on the underside of the barrel are also etching deeper. My question is: Will the etch even out with subsequent coats of solution? Or Stop now and repolish for the rest of the Spring. Is there any way to even out the etch? Your experiences and advice appreciated... | ||
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I took your suggestion about the wire wheel work hardening the steel and counteracted this by allowing more time with the solution on- this was for the small parts only- it worked, the potmetal trigger guard, floorplate, bolt, bolt shroud and screws are stunning! Very satin deep blue black almost iridescent in the sunlight. Parts of the receiver and the barrel cylinder are now what I consider 'frosted' the remainder being the lovely satin. I have made one change from the .22 I did for a friend last month and that was to use a natural sponge instead of a Qtip swab- I think the sponge is holding too much solution... I'm going for the next coat tonight hoping I can achieve some degree of blending. I may skip the receiver and barrel cylinder and see if I can get the rest of the barrel to 'catch up'... If not, someone's going to have to bead blast the thing cause that rust don't come off easy... | |||
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