THE ACCURATERELOADING.COM GUNSMITHING FORUM


Moderators: jeffeosso
Go
New
Find
Notify
Tools
Reply
  
Re-attaching the suppressor/muzzle break!
 Login/Join
 
One of Us
Picture of 303Guy
posted
Well, the suppressor is back in place!


The prepped barrel.


The device being aligned.


The aligning device.


Regards
303Guy
 
Posts: 2518 | Location: New Zealand | Registered: 02 October 2007Reply With Quote
One of Us
Picture of muzza
posted Hide Post
So - why dont you have a screw-on suppressor to avoid this happening ?

Slip-ons for anything other than .22RF seems to be asking for adventure.... Smiler


________________________

Old enough to know better
 
Posts: 4471 | Location: Eltham , New Zealand | Registered: 13 May 2002Reply With Quote
One of Us
Picture of 303Guy
posted Hide Post
I will eventually be fitting a soldered on threaded boss. That's mainly to facilitate cleaning and of course, removal for storage. For now, I am experimenting with different configurations. This one is threaded on the inside front for fitting of the baffles. I have tried a single baffle - that quietens the gun a huge amount but doesn't reduce recoil that much. Multiple baffles reduce recoil a huge amount but the gain in quietness is less than hoped for. Correct baffle design and positioning becomes critical. This thing only gives me 50mm in front of the muzzle to play with.


Regards
303Guy
 
Posts: 2518 | Location: New Zealand | Registered: 02 October 2007Reply With Quote
One of Us
Picture of James Kain
posted Hide Post
What did you use to attach it? Lock-Tight? If that is what you used, I would guess the best stuff to use would be red. I used the blue stuff on my sight on my M1 Carbine and it melted right off. So, I used the red stuff and no more issues. So because it sits on the barrel I m guessing you too would need the red stuff because of the heat issue, among other things.


Disabled Vet(non-combat) - US Army
NRA LIFE MEMBER
Hunter, trapper, machinest, gamer, angler, and all around do it your selfer.
Build my own CNC router from scratch. I installed the hight wrong. My hight moves but the rails blocks 3/4 of the hight.....
 
Posts: 934 | Location: North Anson Maine USA | Registered: 27 October 2008Reply With Quote
One of Us
posted Hide Post
Beware using the red stuff! It's permanent up to about 425 degrees. You WILL need a torch (not a flashlight, mate) to get the thing off if you use the red..
 
Posts: 16534 | Location: Between my computer and the head... | Registered: 03 March 2008Reply With Quote
One of Us
Picture of 303Guy
posted Hide Post
I know about the blue stuff. I did not know it was low temperature. I did not know the red stuff was high temperature (425 is high isn't it?) I do know the green stuff is a bitch to get off! High heat flame to the outside until the green stuffs breaks down then get it off quick before the barrel gets too hot! But I thought the red stuff was medium strength? Anyway, the green stuff would normally work but I simply did not to it properly the first time! I don't think it will come off by itself again. Roll Eyes I hope. Eeker (Hell, those mates of mine will have a hoot if it does). Big Grin Anyway, for now I just want to get the best baffle configuration then I will do the final fitting. (Making it removable for cleaning).


Regards
303Guy
 
Posts: 2518 | Location: New Zealand | Registered: 02 October 2007Reply With Quote
One of Us
Picture of James Kain
posted Hide Post
I know of people who use the red stuff on engine blocks! popcorn


Disabled Vet(non-combat) - US Army
NRA LIFE MEMBER
Hunter, trapper, machinest, gamer, angler, and all around do it your selfer.
Build my own CNC router from scratch. I installed the hight wrong. My hight moves but the rails blocks 3/4 of the hight.....
 
Posts: 934 | Location: North Anson Maine USA | Registered: 27 October 2008Reply With Quote
  Powered by Social Strata  
 


Copyright December 1997-2023 Accuratereloading.com


Visit our on-line store for AR Memorabilia