I am building a 9.3 X 62 on a 1908 Brazilian and my question is; What angle should I use when welding on a new handle. I plan on using a Talley handle and want it straight down, looking from the side. Looking at the receiver and the closed bolt, what angle should the handle project from the action when closed? I did a crude measurement with a protractor on one I saw here on the forum and liked and it came out between 20 and 25 degrees. Any thoughts on this? I will be using a scope in Warne QD rings. I also liked the handle on the Satterlee action.

This old sketch has good dimensions to go by.

I've not done one, but I'd think that you would have to position the handle in the bolt-open position at the minimum angle that will clear the scopes objective bell, and then go 90 degrees down from there

Master

See if you can find a few photos of the 1909 Argentine .458 Win that David Miller did for Safari Club as the elephant rifle. Especially photos of the bolt handle. It is the most perfect bolt handle job I have ever seen on a mauser action. The angle looks perfect, and maybe you could calculate it off of the photo.

I'm going to be doing this soon. Wouldn't it be easier to partially cut the handle (80%) through from the top; then heat and bend it down to the correct angle; then fill the opening with weld?
Basically like the Gas Weld example from above, but then finish with TIG or Stick.

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty Marlin:
I'm going to be doing this soon. Wouldn't it be easier to partially cut the handle (80%) through from the top; then heat and bend it down to the correct angle; then fill the opening with weld?
Basically like the Gas Weld example from above, but then finish with TIG or Stick.

You can end up with a bolt handle that isn’t as long as you need/want by doing it that way. Just something to consider.

Rusty Marlin - I think that is a good idea and will do so except, when I find the angle I want, I'm going to finsh cutting it off and weld the new handle on using that angle because Rick 0311 is correct. The talley will give me a good long handle and that is also a criteria.

Thank you all for your replies, it helped.

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty Marlin:
I'm going to be doing this soon. Wouldn't it be easier to partially cut the handle (80%) through from the top; then heat and bend it down to the correct angle; then fill the opening with weld?
Basically like the Gas Weld example from above, but then finish with TIG or Stick.

I started out notching, bending and welding Mauser handles. I didn't like the way they turned out and so I started straightening and then forging them. That worked a little better. Then I decided I would cut them off completely, shape and prep them and then TIG them back on to provide more length. Then I finally seen the light back in 82, and rather than weld the old handles back on, I would install new ones. This was an immediate success. Now, the only time I will do anything BUT weld on a new handle, is if I can't persuade my customer via pricing...

FWIW, the bolt handle should look like a bolt handle and not a kick stand. And the amount of "out" angle should be no more than is necessary to clear the stock and allow you to grip the knob. When I fit a handle, I will parallel the right lug for a distance the width of the root, and then kick it out approximately 25 degrees. If it doesn't look or feel right, I can always heat it and move it where I need it. Function is key, with looks running a very close second.

Jack Belk is STILL teaching me things. Go here:

http://community.webshots.com/user/hotater

and check out the appropriate book of pictures.



MKane160

Here is the setup that i made 30+ years ago.
You can get any angle you want, tighten it down & look it over real good before you start welding. As Malm said if after you weld the handle on if you need to change the angle you can. I really like how Malm describes a handle not looking like a kick stand. Advice well worth taking.

What a perfect use for a penny!

Pennies come in handy around the shop!

Thanks for giving us your $0.02 worth.

A new handle, huuummmm. An excuse to use the lathe , maybe get creative even.

I'm going to have to make a bolt welding jig too. Looks like 3/8 rod for the main shaft?
Thanks for the pics.

Thanks, again, especially Doug Humbarger for the photos. I printed them and will use them as an example.

quote:

Thanks for giving us your $0.02 worth.

Its always nice to be of assistance when you can & to learn something new. Thats what this Gunsmithing forum is all about. MY $0.02 cents worth.

Doug,

Just curious, do you gas weld your handles?

I modified my bolt fixture, one I got from Brownells around 30 yrs ago. Instead of the penny under you bolts, if you are using one of the lower temperature welding methods, a drop of soft solder on the end of each bolt will greatly assist in keeping those round parts in place. It didn't work well when I was oxy/acetylene welding, but the localized heat of heliarc, and probably wire welding, it works well. I also modified the fixture by using cold rolled steel and bending an extension directly behind the bolt body to allow the use for a heat sink.

Just curious, do you gas weld your handles?

I don't weld my own. I can't see well enough, no depth perception. I get a friend to tig them for me once I get them set up in the jig.

to get the angle correct so it will clear a scope, you must ensure that the root of the bolt is low enough. I use 5/16" max above the bolt body as a starter. When I tig weld them on, I usually just tack it and take it out of the fixture (not unlike the one pictured)and check to see if it will clear a scope mounted on the action. If it don't, it is easy enough to bend it slighly without breaking the tack. Sure saves a lot of headaches later.