I was wondering how important lack of bolt movement is for accuracy. I had my tikka t3 out the other night and that bolt doesn't move very much if any when the firing pin drops, compare that to my remingtons that will visibly move when the trigger is pulled. maybe that is why my little 6.5# tikka is more accurate than even my HB varmint rifles.

now for the part 2 of this question short of sleeving the action is there another way to correct bolt movement in the action truing process, and if so how is it accomplished

Sleeving the bolt isn't going to address that problem. The problem lies with the alignment of the cocking notch and the sear groove. It doesn't matter what the bolt does when it's dry fired. It can affect accuracy if it moves when you touch off a live round. I wouldn't worry about it as being the cause of why the Tika is out shooting your Remington. Find a load that works in the Remington. Almost ALL factory guns have bolt jump to one degree or another. It's annoying but very common.

but if there is no slop between the rear bridge of the action and the bolt wouldn't this cure the movement which is what the sleeving is going to accomplish??

also would shooting neck sized brass with tight a fit when chambering also help with bolt movement??

Are you talking about two different movements? A jump in the end of the bolt because there is a gap between the bolt and action. And a bolt rotation caused by the timing being a touch off.

If you want to eliminate bolt jump, then you need to address that which is responsible for it. Removing slop between the bolt and the receiver while nice isn't addressing the cause of the problem. Aligning the fire control components is the cure.

Even I followed the original thread. Especially where one bloke taped up under the bolt handle until it stopped moving.

I tried my M70, just guessing, too far down it jumps up, and too far up it jumps down.
Just right and there it sits.