What is the proper way to bed an action that has the action screw going into the recoil lug? Like on the Howa's for instance.

I have always thought there should be some space between the bottom of the recoil lug and the beding but if you did this on something with the screw into the recoil lug it could flex the action no? and if it was done with no clearance couldn't it cause the action to move around and shift impact?

The rule of thumb (and many don't believe there *is* a rule, much less follow it) is to bed equal distance on both sides of the screw and then
relieve the bottom of the recoil lug mortise.

by both sides do you mean front and rear of the lug or left and right. I have this same situation with my Sako

markus

I agree with Jack Belk for Howa, earlier Sakos and Weatherby Mark Vs.

For Model 70 and Rem 700 I have the barrel completely free floating.

The idea of not bedding under the recoil is to allow for the recoil lug shaving of some of the bedding when the rifle is reassembled. I bed under the recoil lug but after I have pulled the rifle apart I polish off all the edges of the recoil lug.

I always have the action free floating between the front of the action and the tang.

Mike

My guide lines for glass bedding are differant. I tend to agree with a lot of the bench rest shooters and Brown Precision.

If the front action screw is going into the recoil lug like a Sako or Howa I want the lug to bottom on the glass.

If the front action screw goes into the action with the recoil lug in front of it like a Rem 700 I leave clearance under it.

In both situations I leave clearance on the sides and front of the recoil lug. I like to use a good grade of black electrical tape for clearance areas, trim tape with an exacto knife and apply Johnson's paste wax for release, 2 coats buffed.

I also examine the recoil lug for reverse draft and chamfer any sharp edges.

I also like bedding at least the first 1 1/2 to 2 inches of barrel.

Markus,

My belief is that you need solid contact between the bottom metal and the point where the screw enters the receiver or lug in this case.

Malm

I have always left clearance on the sides, front and bottom of the lug. I completely bed the action, removing bedding compound from those areas that will act like a wedge.
I bed the bottom metal completely.
I bed in the magazine well completely allowing clearance at the rear.
I bed in the barrel all the way to the tip.

Thanks alot fella's. It sure is nice to be able to have people who know what they are talking about give replies.

I would think that everyplace we are squeezing the stock to the action through screws that we want a solid connection, so we can achieve repeated torque specs....if we have air between a screw hole and the wood that the screw goes through, we could crack the wood torqueing the screw, because in essance we would be trying to close that gap...and if the wood gave at all then the reapeated torques setting would be hard to achieve...I dont know the ramifications of bedding in front or behind the lug when its not a screw location....years ago when I bedded one of my rifles it seamed that my guide said not to bed in front of the lug....but secrets change and sometimes we find the secrets have been hurting us all along!!! ha ha hamaking the stock and the action as soild a connection as possible is the goal is it not?.....good luck...bob

I always bed them with them with the bottom of the lug touching. And of course I use a pillar.