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Working on Browning BLRs isn't realy like working on Russian pocket watches, is it?
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I am interested in acquiring a pistol grip Browning BLR rifle. When I try to obtain information on aligning the rack-and-pinion of bolt and lever assemblies, what occurs are statements about never disassembling them - to, of course, moot the issue.

Where to find how to do near total disassembly of BLR and its correct reassembly? Is this of such difficulty that I should not consider trying this?

There have been several versions of the basic BLK, some of the changes between these versions are significant enough for me to ask which are more desirable?

How much interoperability occurs among BLR rifles of like cartridge chambering?


It's so simple to be wise. Just think of something stupid to say and then don't say it. Sam Levinson
 
Posts: 1525 | Location: Seeley Lake | Registered: 21 November 2007Reply With Quote
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Nice rifles. I sure like my .358 Winchester BLR takedown. Never had to take it apart any further than explained in the owners manual. Not that I probably couldn't figure out how to, just never had any reason to.

https://www.browning.com/conte...ls/ltngblrmanual.pdf

 
Posts: 897 | Registered: 03 May 2012Reply With Quote
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Complete Disassembly is explained in The Gun Digest Book of Firearms Assembly/Disassembly Part IV: Centerfire Rifles. You can often find an older version of this softcover book used on Amazon or Ebay.

Bill Jacobs


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Posts: 339 | Location: Greenwood, SC | Registered: 06 February 2004Reply With Quote
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Thanks guys, for the information. Looks like there's a whole lot of knowledge I need acquire before I attempt to disassemble-reassemble. How much difference among the versions, interoperability of magazines, how long magazines are expected to remain reliable, et al.


It's so simple to be wise. Just think of something stupid to say and then don't say it. Sam Levinson
 
Posts: 1525 | Location: Seeley Lake | Registered: 21 November 2007Reply With Quote
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The trick is timing the pinion gear for proper lockup without slop. Sometimes hit and miss. I use a feeler gauge between the bolt head and bolt body while adjusting. I'll check the Browning shop manual Monday and give you the factory specs.
 
Posts: 3837 | Location: SC,USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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I was given one years ago that had been assembled incorrectly. Since then i’ve Had it apart a couple times and each time it was just a matter of engaging the rack and spur gears properly...it would take a few tries until the carrier was fully forward against the rear of the bolt. It’s really not too difficult but may take 2 or 3 tries.


Shoot straight, shoot often.
Matt
 
Posts: 1187 | Location: Wisconsin | Registered: 19 July 2001Reply With Quote
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The Browning shop manual states that a gap of .001" to .015" must be maintained between the rear of the bolt head and the bolt body at lockup. I place a .010" feeler gauge in the gap when installing the lever and pinion gear. Here is the exact instructions:

"TIMING OF ACTION"

"With the Cocking Lever Pin partially seated, bring back the Hammer to the half-cock position.

When the action is properly timed, cocking the Hammer will allow the Breech Bolt Slide to move to the rear a maximum of .015" due to the action of the Firing Pin Spring. Timing is acceptable if slide movement falls between .001" to .015"."

You may need to use a 3/32" punch through the Cocking Gear Pin hole to align the gear.
 
Posts: 3837 | Location: SC,USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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I've done it. You'll have less hair when you're done than when you started. rotflmo
 
Posts: 432 | Location: Wyoming/ Idaho, St Joe river | Registered: 17 November 2005Reply With Quote
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