My friend ask me to help him disassemble the bolt on his Parker Hale Mauser 300 Win mag because the safety lever is very hard to engage. Unfortunately I have no experience with the Mauser action nor any manual for instructions. Will someone please explain the disassembly procedure to remove the fireing pin, safety, and etc. Thanks in advance. Chief.

Is the safety on the bolt shroud or is it part of the trigger?

Yes, the safety is on the bolt shroud. Also I was in error in thinking this rifle was his Parker Hale. Its not, its his 40 yeard old custom Mauser in 243 Win.

Kurt & 510 thanks for the advise. After following your instructions I was able to remove the bolt shroud, safety, & etc. with no problems. Cleaned and inspected all the parts and to my untrained eye everything seemed normal. Reassembled the bolt, installed it in the rifle and still could not get the safety to function. Closer inspection showed that the striker does not cock (move to rear) enough to permit the safety to fit behind the cocking piece. Pulled the striker to the rear with a plyer and behold the safety engaged and worked smoothly. Then I decided to remove the barreld action from the stock and discovered a Timney trigger had been installed. Could this trigger be causing the problem and need adjustment? If so do you know to adjust a Timney trigger? Thanks, Chief.

Aftermarket triggers and original 98 safeties do not go together well. The sear on the aftermarket triggers will often sit a fraction of an inch further forward in the receiver, just out of reach of the bevel on the safety.

The wrong way to correct it (and the most popular), is to bevel the top forward part of the cocking piece, so the safety can engage it. This should never be done. The safety is designed to fit against an unmolested cocking piece.

If you only need a bit of movement, you can increase the bevel on the safety, so that it engages the cocking piece earlier. Just make sure the center flat portion of the safety stays that way.

If either the safety or cocking piece are early case-hardened models, then you should have them re-casehardened if you remove any metal.

The best method is to try different triggers or safeties until you find a match that functions properly in all aspects.

If it has the original 3-position safety:

Close the bolt, cocking the rifle.
Put the safety in the middle, upright postion.
Remove the bolt.
Turn the shroud counterclockwise, pushing in the lock plunger for the first couple of turns.
Remove the firing pin assembly.
Push the pin into a hole until the cocking piece clears the shroud.
Turn the cocking piece 90 degrees and remove.
Remove the shroud and safety.

If the shroud has an FN 2-position safety:

Remove the bolt and pull the cocking piece all the way to the rear, using an appropriate tool or the edge of a workbench.
With your third hand, stand on your head and insert a coin or key in between the cocking piece and the shroud. Unscrew the shroud as above.