Hi All

Having a 35whelen AI barrel made for my Sauer 200,
to complement my 30-06AI. Was wondering about headpace, is it the same as the 30-06AI?
Plan on shooting 225grains Barnes X in it, that should do the trick on moose and boar!

tx
bendtsen

I would want the neck/shoulder juntion of an unfired .35 Whelan factory load to "headspace" in the Improved chamber. This is a must. It's what a improved chamber is all about.

I don't think a 30/06 improved gage would work at all.

Well, in theory they should be the same, (like using a 30-06 headspace gauge set for a 25-06 etc). As Don points out, however, you want a slightly tight chamber at the neck/shoulder junction to insure proper forming and minimize stretching of your brass. Also, they would both need to be the same Improved version, ie; if it's a 40 degree Ackley improved in the 30-06 you won't be able to use it with an RCBS 28 degree improved version of the Whelen. Same for if it's a Brown-Whelen. If they are both Ackley 40 degree versions, it should be OK. - Dan

bendtsten

On all AI calibers you have to have a caliber specific go gauge.For no go guage you use the parent caliber go gauge. In your case you can
use your 30-06 go gauge for a no go which is the same as 35 Whelen.You will need a 35 AI go gauge.
James

Its easy when the barrel is in the lathe and one is chambering. Either use a '06 go gauge or a Ackley go gauge.

If using a '06 go gauge, chamber 0.004" to 0.005" short. Don't forget the 0.002" or so "draw" when the barrel is screwed home when calculating the numbers.

If using a true Ackley 40 degree go gauge, chamber so the bolt will just close, snugly, on the gauge. Again, don't forget the "draw" in your calculations.

If you do it correctly, when the barrel is properly torqued, when chambering new unfired brass, the bolt should close snugly and you should feel some resistance when the bolt closes on the brass.

The purpose in all this is to hold the case in position when it is fire formed.

There is a real easy method, when the barrel is still in the lathe, to check things with a dial indicator to be sure you are "right on". Screw the action on the barrel hand tight. Place the go gauge in the chamber. With the bolt stripped of extractor (and ejector if it is a plunger type), place the bolt in the receiver and close it on the gauge. Then measure the axial movement of the bolt with a dial indicator. Should have about 0.002" free play, this will go to zero when the barrel is torqued. I will have to to take a photo next time I chamber a barrel and post it, this is a quick way to check your work before the barrel is out of the lathe.

Thanks John. That's a good idea. - Dan

John,

Can you please explain what you mean by .002" draw when the barrel is tightened? If I'm interpreting this correctly you're saying cut the chamber .002"-.003" short so that when the barrel is tightened it will result in a chamber .004-.005" short. right?

Thanks,

Mike

Thank You all

As they are both 40*AI I now know what to do!

TX
Bendtsen

All chambering, weather AI or conventional, when the barrel is tightened, it will pull into the receiver about 0.002". Depends on the thread pitch and how much torque one puts on the action wrench. A light pull on the 2 foot long action wrench handle pulls the assembly up about 0.001". With a heavy pull (and lubricated threads, as they should be in all instances, I use black moly grease) one may pull upwards of 0.003". Note, this is when using a heavy duty barrel vise and a heavy duty action wench. When taking the measurements of the receiver in order to calculate just how far to run in the chamber reame, I always allow 0.002" for "draw".

[ 09-14-2002, 10:52: Message edited by: John Ricks ]

Thanks for clarifying John! That's what I thought you meant.

-Mike