i have a pre64 mod 70 458wm which beats hell out of my second finger of my shooting hand. Is there any reason I cannot take a rasp to the grip and relieve the pistol grip a bit? The rifle lives in Dallas, as a result of our local gun laws, while we live on St. Thomas. I was thinking about taking a rasp, some sandpaper and a bit of finish to zim with me and having at it. Bearing in mind that I am not a gunsmith is this a good idea, or, should I just grind the back portion of the bow(just kidding)

Bryan

Before you go "a grinding" on your rifle, you might try one of those rubber or leather pads that double shotgun and double rifle users sometimes put on the back of the trigger guard.

Bryan,

If your pre-64 stock is in relatively good shape and not already altered, I recommend against your proposed modification. That would take a lot away from your gun's value.

It's pretty easy to modify a post 64 stock to substitute as a user stock for a pre-64, or get a semi-inletted Boyd's, etc. For me at least, taking a rasp to one of those would be more palatable than to a good original pre-64 stock. I've got several pre-64's (257 transition carbine, 30-06s, 300 H&Hs, 375) I've put user stocks on in order to protect the originals even though I'm a pretty careful user.

If you are not inclined toward woodwork, it should not be hard to find a gunsmith in Dallas who can help. Might not fit your immediate needs, but for the longer term you might want to commission a custom stock as the solution. I've seen some real nice work on these forums - by posters in many cases...

Good luck,
Emory

Well Obamanomics allowing I plan to have a new stock made after this years hunt; just trying for a quick fix this year

I agree that you ought to try one of these as a quick fix before a rasp!

Trigger Guard Bumper

Thanks! That looks like just what the doctor ordered. What is the difference between the set screw model and the spring steel version?

I have never used one. Seem to be just two different ways to attach the bumper to the trigger guard.

I would probably go with the set screw model, as long as there is clearance between the back of the trigger and the head of the set screw. The set screw model may be more secure, and that is very important on a DG rifle.

By placing a No. 6 (or so) sized shot between the bottom of the set screw and the trigger guard, you can avoid marring the inside surface of the guard with the screw.

On the other hand, since they're only $19 apiece, I might just buy both and see which one works best. The one that doesn't can always be returned.

Good luck!

Bryan, I have a 1972 Model 70 Deluxe stock originally for a 338 so it has recoil bolts in it. It is bedded for a pre 64 Win 375 H&H and has a pretty slim grip. The mag well is a bit buggered but it is fully functional and looks very nice unless you look at the bottom metal area as that is where the biggest differences between a pre 64 and post 64 conflict; also a pre 64 floorplate doesn't quite cover the buggered mag well inletting a little. A post 64 floorplate would do wonders for it's appearance as would a post 64 triggerguard, but the post 64 trigger guards are expensive in steel and would have to be altered to fit. I will sell you for $50 shipped, as-is, no return. It has a cheekpiece as well. I used it on a few pre 64's and keep it around to put a gun in while I refinish it's stock.

When looking down on top of the grip as you hold the rifle, how far is your thumb wrapped around to the left side?

Knuckle banging is a ocmmon occurance on double shotguns with 2 triggers. Many people hold the grip with their thumb wrapped too far over. Move your thumb and grip to the right and BINGO!, the knuckle no longer gets wrapped.

I was taught to shoot on a springfield and later reinforced by training, in the Army, on the m1; and yes, we were taught to wrap the thumb over the stock to prevent getting a thumb in the eye upon recoil as well as promoting a firm grip. I may try this because my finger, at the knuckle, is still sore after we shot at the DSC shoot 11April