Is there any such animal as an oil-based satin stock finish. The ones I know of are very high gloss. Using a piece of steel wool on a Lind-speed oil finish to dull it turned out like I had used a rasp on a chunk of plexiglas. I have a satin finish rifle that I like, but it has a poly finish and a drop-dead beautifully grained Turkish Walnut stock. I'd like to refinish it, but retain the satin finish. Thanks ... Tom Purdom

Tom,

Generally speaking, the appearance of the finish is not so much a result of the type of finish uses as it is how the last coat is treated.

Others here are more experienced and will provide a better answer than I can, but I've fooled with finishes some and have custom rifles that are finished as I want. I too like the "satin" finish. However, we may (each and all of us) have a different definition of "satin."

I have rifles and shotguns with many different finishes including linseed, plastic, marine varnish, and some of the newer combo materials (like Flecto's) that combine oil and synthetics. I am convinced at a nice satin finish can be had with all of them, and have the stocks to prove it.

I think the trick is that the final coat (actually, all of them) must be totally dry before the final sanding. The grit used will determine the amount of gloss, or lack thereof. If I recall correctly, 320-360 used very lightly is about right for a satin finish. Keep in mind that something like "360 grit" is not the same in all brands of sandpaper. Start off very lightly with the courser grit working a small area, if too rough, step up to a finer grit. Use good quality automotive wet/dry material. Most experienced stock makers make a slurry using the finishing material itself.

Throw the steel wool away.

Steve

[This message has been edited by holtz (edited 12-10-2001).]

It seems like I have tried every finish out there and my two favorites satins in terms of durability and appearenece are:

Applying Pilkingtons (Brownells) by hand allowing each coat to dry properly and hitting every other coat with 0000 steel wool. Final coat is applied by 'stretching' as small amount as possible with your fingers. If you want it more satin, wait two weeks, and polish it with a 'mud' made up of rottenstone (powder) and lemon oil. It will be smooth as glass.

Even easier is Pro-Custom (Brownels) aerosol which is a mixture of oil and urethane finish. Build up even coats (one can can easily do a stock-big can). When done you can leave it or again wait two weeks and hit it with the rottenstone. Like the previous post said you must wait till a finish is FULLY cured to knock it down. This takes longer in humid or cold areas. I have gotten in the habit of putting my guns back into service before the final rubdown so that I know they are cured. Snifing the stock will help tell you when they are REALLY dry. If you have access to a high speed buffer you can really achieve a deep satin glow with a wax.

I have found that 0000 steel wool worked really well on the last coat of Tru-oil. It left fewer "sanding marks" than 600 grit sandpaper. A little wax just deepened the appearance of the finish.

FWIW, Canuck

Steel wool should never be a part of stock finishing, it leaves particles of steel imbedded in the surface and in time they will rust and protrude the finish..Use a magnafying glass in sunlight to see these minute particles...wet sanding with 400 for egg shell, 600 to 800 for hi gloss.

When you have finished your stock, wait about a week then knock the shine off your high gloss Linspeed finish with a mixture of Pilkington red oil and fine pumise on a red scotch pad or t-shirt ball, some polishing compounds will also do this...

I like Pro Chem products, True Oil, and a number of oil modified Urathanes as well as some poly urathanes...

The brand of finish isn't as critical as the application...Knowing how to finish a stock is the cure all, that comes with a lot of study, experience and the ability to listen to others that have been there and done that.

------------------
Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com

Ditto on the steel wool. Just stay away from it. Only only one exception, I'll get to that in a minuet.
Finish that dries completely is a big factor. Use many thin coats. Fill the grain with a mixture of sawdust and finish by wet sanding with with diluted finish and 400 wet dry paper.
Products..... the best I have used are catalized poly and variations. Usually a urea formalehyde kind of thing. Fullerplast, Glasskote, conversion varnish,... all this stuff is good. They have the advantage of drying fast and thoroughly. They may not be for the amatuer though, for safety and expense reasons. Also enviornmentalists are taking such goodies away these days. They are best shot with a sprayer. Some will worry about the half used all day sucker look of a Weatherby stock that you get with these types of finishes. That is not the fault of the finish, it is in how it is applied. Thin coats and filled grain is the key to making it look like a Kimber and not a Weatherby.
To make the satin finish you need to rub it out. Begin by knocking off the imperfections with 400 wet-dry. Then I use Dupont automitive rubbing compound and water. For a matt finish I rub with the finest steel wool and the rubbing compound. This cuts very fast so be carefull.
For the weekend refinisher I would suggest satin spar varnish treated as I described above. Let it dry for a couple of days between coats and use a sable brush.

quote:

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Originally posted by Atkinson:
Steel wool should never be a part of stock finishing, it leaves particles of steel imbedded in the surface and in time they will rust and protrude the finish..Use a magnafying glass in sunlight to see these minute particles...wet sanding with 400 for egg shell, 600 to 800 for hi gloss.

When you have finished your stock, wait about a week then knock the shine off your high gloss Linspeed finish with a mixture of Pilkington red oil and fine pumise on a red scotch pad or t-shirt ball, some polishing compounds will also do this...

I like Pro Chem products, True Oil, and a number of oil modified Urathanes as well as some poly urathanes...

The brand of finish isn't as critical as the application...Knowing how to finish a stock is the cure all, that comes with a lot of study, experience and the ability to listen to others that have been there and done that.

---

Check this thread out from huntamerica. It has a reply from Chic Worthington. He is a first class stockmaker who did the stock on this years ACGG rifle to be raffled at the annual convention in Reno. You probably will find his response most useful.

http://www.huntamerica.com/ultimatebb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic&f=8&t=002302

[This message has been edited by DavidReed (edited 12-11-2001).]