Thanks for the replies guys. As far as I know, the laminate is most likely from Rutland Ply, as I think they supply most of the makers of custom laminate stocks like Shehane, Masterclass (sitman), and McGee. The color is pretty much as shown in the picture, just not as bright and electric as that yet (no finish, and dirty). It was purchased as a semi-inletted stock, supposedly finished w/ 80 grit, and I had it bedded by Jim Cloward. I will say that if that is an 80 grit finish, it is the *smoothest* 80 grit finish I've ever seen!

Thanks,

Monte

I don't like lacquer for the same reasons Scot posts...you'll destroy it with bore cleaning solvents eventually in a hard-used across-the-course rifle.

I'd clean it with 0000 steel wool and mineral spirits....but before I did that I'd wipe some acetone on it to test whether the lamination stain is acetone-based. I suspect it is alcohol-based aniline dye, however. If it is aniline dye, then I'd clearcoat the cleaned stock with a good clear polurethane from Brownell's...or perhaps even a poly-oil mix like Pro Custom Oil or Permalyn....but those would be more amber-toned when you want clear. Good poly's are about as clear as lacquer and are much tougher and clearer than the usual linseed or tung varnishes. Solvent-proof, too. You need clear to enhance those colors.

Water-based poly is reputed to be the clearest, but I don't have any experience with it.

You can buy some aniline dyes from Highland Hardware or one of the other woodworker suppliers to enhance your colors before finishing.

I wouldn't sand the stock over those original lamination dyes unless I found scratches....I don't know how deep the dyes penetrate....I'd apply the first coat of poly thinned 50-50 and sand each coat back some with 220 grit wet-or-dry lubed with water til I got the smoothness I wanted.

FWIW, I think the colors are literally *in* the laminated layers. i.e. they buy a laminated block and mill the stock from it as is. The colors are not merely on the surface. That's one of the reasons I got a laminate instead of a fiberglass this go-around, so I can twiddle the fit of the stock as needed by hand w/ a rasp and file and Dremel and then refinish. Little more involved on a fiberglass job.

Thanks,

Monte

You can get laquir in spray cans. I like Deft. It sands and rubs out great. Once you have a smooth level finish rub it out with automotive rubbing compound then polishing compound. It will look like glass.

One caution. If your stock already has laquir, some solvents will eat it up. Whiping it down with laquir thinner will remove the finish instantly. This may be a good prep for your stock. Laquir dries by evaporation. No chemical polymerization takes place. This is good for speed but may also be a downside if you get bore cleaning solvents on the wood.

If you have the equipment laquir is better to spray with an automitive gun. Get nitrocellulose laquir. The pre catalized it good stuff. Start with sanding sealer. Once it is filled and level use the gloss top coat. Check with the paint dealer for the detail on how to use it.

One of my other hobbies is restoring antique radios. Laquir is the proper finish on old wood radios. At first I hated laquir. I had lots of trouble gettin it right. Once I got the hang of it I began to like it. It is by far the fastest finish I have ever used. It look great too. One of the main tricks it to fill the grain completely before you spray anything. Laquir does not build well.

I just completed several hundred linear feet of trim for my house using pre-cat laquir. It goes really fast. Sand, stain with laquir stain shot on with an automitive gun, sanding sealer, sand just enough to get the buggars off, tip coat with flat pre-cat. I would have been at it for months with any other finish.

Laquir has been used on factory and military rifles. The Swiss used it on their k-31s. You can add a toner to the finish to get any color you want. This apperars to be how the Swiss got the orange tint to their stocks. I refinished a K-31 in laquir, it looks original.

Well, the match rifle is back from the gunsmiths getting bedded and some other stuff done to the stock. Now I have a few things left to tweak, like a little more inletting for the rear sight base and the bolt shroud on the cheekpiece, but I'm getting pretty close to wanting to put some sort of finish on this puppy. I'm looking for the end result to look like this:



as possible. The problem right now is that btwn show-n-tell (and people drooling on it ;p ) and the grime from being handled so much, it now needs a fair amount of cleanup before applying a finish.

What do you fellows recommend for cleaning up the stock? Someone had mentioned rubbing alcohol to get rid of grease and oil from people hands, even before sanding further. Anything else?

As far as a finish to really light up the laminate, ideas? I think the stock shown was done in a high-gloss laquer, IIRC, but I am not sure where to find that outside of ordering from Rockler's or WoodCraft. I really want something to keep this bright and colorful even considering the exposure to sunlight it will get over the years.

Suggestions, comments?

TIA,

Monte

I don't know, but I think some care re: solvent choice is needed when dealing with a laminate. You don't want to damage it by weakening the resin holding it together. Your best friend might be some 00 steel wool, followed by 000, then 0000 - you'll remove a tiny bit of wood from the surface and expose some new stuff for your finish to soak into. You may even want to stop at 00 or 000 and apply some finish, then buff further; 'burnishing' the wood by polishing too finely before applying any finish can sometimes stop the finish from penetrating and sealing.



Good luck

Todd



Edited: as far as finish, try Arm-R-Seal made by General Finishes, sold by Woodcraft, Rockler, and other high-end woodworking stores. An oil/poly wiping varnish that waterproofs very well, builds up nicely with thin (i.e. thinned) coats, and makes the wood grain look very nice. You can make is shiny, dull, or satin, depending on how / when you rub it out after putting a coat on. SHORT shelf life once opened, so don't buy a gallon. Putting it into smaller containers and sealing them well helps shelf life a bit.

What's it made of and to what degree has it been sanded? I assume it has no finish or stail/grain filler? You want the laminations contrasting colors? What's already on the wood dramatically influences what topcoats you can use.



If it has been finish sanded, don't touch it with anything coarser than 0000 steel wool.



This doesn't deal with your situation directly...but it's a start:



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