Scot,

Most of the problems I see other people having at the range comes from two things: cheap optics and improper mounting.

Before I hurl recommendations at you, how about some more information?

What cartridge is your rifle chambered in? What does the rifle weigh (approximately)?

What magnification are you looking for? Fixed or variable?

What is the typical shot presentation? Running game?
'Beanfield' shooting? Tree-stand? Still-hunting?

George

You wamt bullet proof, then go with Leupold Mark IV's rings and bases. There are a few others such as Badger but things will not move with the leupolds.

I want to use the most bullet proof combo of bases rings and scope possible. It will go on a pre '64 Wincheste M-70. I was using Redfield rings as bases and a Redfield Scope but, had some problems with the thing moving and screwing up my point of impact. Over the years I have had several malfunctions in this department. I think they are getting bounced around and knocked in the jeeps we hunt from.

I am thinking I want all steel rings, bases and scope tube. Maybe even one piece rings/bases. I was thinking of starting with a Redfield one piece base. First get everything lined up to be sure it can be sighted in. Then solder the front rotary dovetail into the base. Run a screw through the rear base up into the ring and solder it too. Epoxy the base and ring assembly to the rifle receiver along with the screws. As for the scope I was thinking of a fixed power 6X with a steel tube.

What do you think will be the best way to go about this? What is the toughest steel tube scope?

While you're doing all this epoxying and soldering, don't forget to re-drill and tap your existing receiver mounting holes from 6-48 to something like 8-40 or 8-32.



Personally, for "tough" I prefer either a G&H double-lever side-mount (remove the scope while bouncing in the jeep), or scopes without internal adjustments mounted in something akin to a Stith Master-Mount.



Many of my heavy calibre English magazine rifles had the scopes hard-soldered in place, but the down-side to that is that knocks which are hard enough to loosen a well designed mount will also loosen the internals on a truly hard-mounted scope. Then, they are a "beach" to replace if the scope is soldered on...



Alberta Canuck

The best thing you can do is surface grind the receiver so all is square to the world, then hand fit the bases, then cut the bases square in a mill...I use Talleys but a good claw mount works great also and with this method they will return to zero...I also like the G&H mounts when properly fitted by an expert, and they leave the receiver clean and I really like that...

Like you I have found the mounts with opposing screws and a twist front end, wear and will not hold a true zero..that includes a lot of mounts I'm afraid...Jack Belk told of a test wherein those types of mounts lost 25% of their accuracy after taken off one time..I don't know if this is an accurate account or not, but I do think it has some basis...

Before I hurl recommendations at you, how about some more information?

What cartridge is your rifle chambered in? What does the rifle weigh (approximately)?

What magnification are you looking for? Fixed or variable?

What is the typical shot presentation? Running game?
'Beanfield' shooting? Tree-stand? Still-hunting?

George

---

25-06

4X or 6X fixed

Shot presentation?? The is no typical, drive around in the jeep, find a deer, get out, maybe get closer, shoot him, might also find him taking a hike from drop off to pick up point, shots can be at any distance, it is open grass, Oaks, Brush, all of the above. I have killed deer from a few yards to the outter reaches ethical distances. Usually I won't shoot past about 300 yards and only then if I have a rock solid rest and am completely calm.

I just want an utterly reliable scope that will stay put for the life of the rifle. Zeiss, Swarski, Leupold???

Tough stuff you want.



I'd get Badger Ordnance rings and bases (about $225 or so). On the heavy side but real tough.



http://www.badgerord.com/htm/prod_b.php



http://www.badgerord.com/htm/prod_a.php



Change the screws to #8



Find an OLD Leupold Mark 4 M3 in straight 6X, it should be pretty tough. They're around but pricey at times, maybe as much as $1,000



I'm pretty hard on my rifles and I haven't had any change zero in all the tumbles, falls, slides, drops, etc I've done. Torque the base (4 screws) and scope cap screws (4 or 6 on each ring) to 15 in/lbs and then torque the rings to the base at 65 in/lbs

If a fixed 6 is what your looking for then there are still a lot of old Weaver steel tub scopes in use today. If you contact the people who still repair them in El paso, they will sell you a refurbished one that is better than the originals and garantee it for as long as they are still in business.