I am collecting parts for my next project, a .375 H&H. I have a very clean 1909 Argentine action. I am trying to figure out who's drop mag bottom metal to use. I know of 3, Sunny Hill, Blackburn, and Sound metal products. One of the big questions is who will turn my wood and what metal did they use for their pattern, looking for a Btitish style pattern. Lots of questions, wondering who else has done this and what they chose. Thanks.

Go with what is available NOW. Special ordering 1 up bottom metal can be very very frustrating, as can be attested to by many here on AR.

If you are going to go with a semi-inletted stock, you may have to pay a bit extra to have the proprietor glass your specific bottom metal into his pattern before he runs it on his machine. Someone who offers this type of service is Al Lind, although I do not know if he has a british styled pattern. I am sure there are others who offer the same service.

Before you commit to drop box bottom metal take a look at Duane Wiebe's site. He currently has a photo of a recent job that he finished of a .404 on a Mauser Action that will hold 4 in the magazine without it being a drop box magazine. Perhaps one of his .375 Magazines will do the same!!

lee440. I second what 22WRF says. I am about to order Duane's (SMP) 404 Mauser standard box that holds the extra round. WIll give a very nice profile rifle to carry, similar to my 375H&H, which (open sights only) weighs 8 1/4lb and fits my hand beautifully for carrying, plus balance.

Please let us nosy blokes know what you decide on!

Best wishes, Chris

Am I the only guy left on the planet who prefers his Mauser bottom metal to NOT be hinged or open up in any other way? I figure that's one more thing that can go wrong at some point, plus I never felt handicapped by having to short-cycle 3 or 4 rounds through the action to unload it. On those rare occasions where I might feel the need to drop the floorplate it really isn't that big of a deal to use the point of a cartridge to unlatch it. Come to think of it, in 40 years of playing with Mausers I never felt the need to do even that.

I'll admit they are classy, but as stated, not at all necessary. I prefer to save that added expense and put it toward some other feature of the build.

Like Thoreau said "Simplify, Simplify".

I saw a couple of Blackburn units for sale in the classifieds section within the last two weeks. Not sure if they sold or not. The polish from balckburn is very nice. Possibly no final polishing to be done on the Blackburn. BTW, Blackburn is bassicaly retired, and he might not have any more in stock, so get it while you still can. The unit that I bought from Wiebe needed some polishing up. He may provide them polished if you ask for it, but that may cost extra, I don't know. Wiebe makes good stuff though, and offers a huge variety. Don't know anything about Sunny Hill.

Just went back and searched classifieds. If they haven't been sold yet, 22WRF has what you need.

It is true that you can get Blackburn fully polished as a stage two. If you buy the standard stage one you will have to polish it. You have to pay more for the stage two. We at SMP also offer this service.

quote:

Originally posted by ColoradoMatt:
Just went back and searched classifieds. If they haven't been sold yet, 22WRF has what you need.

They are sold pending funds.

With regard to polishing, I have polished a few Blackburn Guards before. It is not a difficult task, but if you want to keep all of the corners sharp and not change any of the geometries then you have to be very careful while you are working. You will need very small files, very fine stones, fine grit papers and a number of shapes to wrap the paper around so that you match the various contours on the piece. You can do a very nice job in a couple of hours. Don't buff if you don't know what you are doing!!!!!!!!!!

quote:

Originally posted by gnoahhh:
Am I the only guy left on the planet who prefers his Mauser bottom metal to NOT be hinged or open up in any other way? I figure that's one more thing that can go wrong at some point, plus I never felt handicapped by having to short-cycle 3 or 4 rounds through the action to unload it. On those rare occasions where I might feel the need to drop the floorplate it really isn't that big of a deal to use the point of a cartridge to unlatch it. Come to think of it, in 40 years of playing with Mausers I never felt the need to do even that.

I'll admit they are classy, but as stated, not at all necessary. I prefer to save that added expense and put it toward some other feature of the build.

Like Thoreau said "Simplify, Simplify".

You are not on your lonesome as I also stayed with the original ex mil 98 bottom metal on the two "keepers" in my safe. I did add a button to the floor plate to forgo using a bullet tip and it is a very simple exercise to empty the magazine.

Von Gruff.