I'm just curious as to what everyone is using. I started with 60 degree checkering tools for no particular reason and that is what I have stayed with. Any advantage in 90 degree?
Blair

I have both, it depends on what style of checkering I want to produce. I use the 90 if I want sharp pointed checkering and the 60 if I want the to have flat top checkering. Not saying you can't do sharp diamonds with the 60 - you just have go deeper to get a sharp diamond. I've even used both once in a while - cutting 90 sharp diamonds and deepen the lines with a 60. John303.

In theory the 90 degree diamonds have a wider base/height ratio and resist damage (flaking away) a bit better. If your wood is hard and tight grained it probably makes little difference.

I've only used 90-degree tools because, as already stated, 60-degree tools require you to go deeper to point the diamonds.

Is there any difference in how the spacer tool tracks in one vs. the other? Any better in the 60 or 90?
Blair

Blair; I would use a 60 as it would give you deeper lines more quickly on the other hand a 90 would be easier to correct should you wander off. It's been awhile since I ordered any spacers, are both available, I'll need to check out Brownells. John303.

John, if you draw a diagram with the same spacing on the tops of the diamond and one of the shapes is 60 degrees and the other is 90 degrees (superimposed on each other), you will see that the 60 degree will have to take out more material (t goes deeper but the width at the top is the same). Therefore, the 60 degree will be slower and not faster to make the full diamond.

Chic: Yes I understand what you are saying and agree with you, however Blair wants to know about spacing cutters 60 vs 90. I believe a 60 would give you a deeper line to follow for subsequent lines, once the pattern is laid out you could then switch to a 90 if you wished. John303.

John and Chic,
Thanks. Seems like the 60 would cut a little deeper with each pass simply because its a bit narrower, haven't tried the 90 though. Do ya'll cut about half the depth before moving to the next groove. I was thinking that the 60 might follow a bit better simply because of the sharper side angle, but in reality there probably isn't much difference.
Blair

John, sorry for the misunderstanding. I did not know that spacing tools even came in 60 degrees. I do my layout with a MMC electric and in 90 degrees. Then I cut it full depth with a 90.

No problem Chic: Finally got out Brownells catalogue and it seems that the hand spacers are 60s and power tools are 90 / 75. --- John303.

Don't like to pirate Blair's post but I must say Chic, that is one nice Mauser on your site - the one with DSTs and side panels. Where can I purchase or do you sell semi-finished stocks in that style? --- John S.

Thank you for the comment. I built that gun from a blank and it is presently owned by an AR member. We did a trade on a beautiful old Francotte s/s shotgun. The shotgun gets a lot of use for upland hunting and is my go to pheasant gun now. I do have a pattern for a similar stock now but I do not yet have a duplicator.

It's better looking in person than the photos on Chic's website show. I often take it out to remind myself what true artistry is. I have not had the chance to hunt it yet but will have no qualms about using it.

Chic, glad the Francotte is serving you well. FYI, if you look on the Griffin & Howe website I believe they have that gun in a database, model, shipping date, etc., if that sort of thing interests you.

Rob

I own a 1950 Model 71 Winchester and a 1957 Model 70. Both with fine line factory checkering.
The model 71 has flat top factory checkering and the "70" has diamond top checkering.

It surprised me when I compared the rifles and saw that factory checkering varied so much.