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I've always liked the Dakota 10, and intend to have one built. Its slim lines and lightweight appeal to me. I've read where the Model 10 cannot be cleaned from the breech due to the safety being in the way. I assume (hope!) the tang can be reshaped so the rifle can be cleaned in this manner. I'm not interested in any other action. I don't care for the looks of the Hagn, nor the weight of the Ruger #1. Any one else have any suggestions as to improvements needed? I'm hoping SDH chimes in here. Doug | ||
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I have a Model 10 25-06. I have always cleaned it from the breech. I use a carbon fiber rod. Never had an issue. Just looked at mine. The very top of the safety might overlap the bottom of the chamber but it is below the bore. Altering the tang (with safety assembly) Is not something I would care to have done. Why fix something that isn't broken. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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I used to do the metalwork on them when they first started building them. The reason the the safety may be too high now is whoever polished and checkered the button never took the time to file it down to a more pleasing line. This of course requires extra effort. When I moved to the stock shop the polishing shop refused to file them down. I started filing them while stocking them and got chewed out by the polishing supervisor. I just laughed and kept doing it when the #10's would go across my bench. I tried to get the print changed, but that just insulted the guy that was drawing the prints. "What do you mean change the print? The safety doesn't work now?" | |||
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Ramrod - When did you have yours built? James - Any other problems need ironing out in your experience? Doug | |||
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Sorry I didn't have mine built. I bought it in 1999 from John Wooters who had in turn picked it up from Gary Sitton. Mine has never had a handload fired though it. Waiting on dies I tried 85gr & 115gr WW Silvertips. Both grouped around .75MOA about 1 inch apart. I agree with Gunmaker it is the little hump on the safety that would be in the way if anything. 5 minutes and a touch up would take care of the problem if there was one. What did surprise me was the sharpness of the recoil. Mine only has the butt plate. First time I pulled the trigger it surprised me. Mine is a pleasure to carry and a dream to shoot. As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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The biggest problem with this slick little action is the JUNK firing pin setup that I had to deal with. They didn't want me to try anything new, just fit the bucket full if nasty parts they had heat treated. I heard that after Kokesh bought Dakota and hired/bought out Cyle Miller, the firing pin system was changed to something more like a Ruger #1. I've never seen this alleged upgrade. SDH makes a really nice custom #10 and has a ton of time logged fixing all the little bugs. | |||
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I've always cleaned my Model 10 from the breech w/o any problems. Steve, Mine had a broken firing pin when I bought it. IIRC I bought a couple extra's and might still have them. Let me know if you need one of them..........................DJ ....Remember that this is all supposed to be for fun!.................. | |||
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Thanks Steve, James, dj. I don't know how the cleaning issue was made to be such a problem, but I've read it in a few places. I love the rifles!! Is there a fix to the firing pin problem? Doug | |||
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The only sure fix is to NEVER dry fire a Model 10 without a snap cap. Supposedly the later model firing pins are redesigned but I wouldn't trust a Model 10 to be dry-fired. You can decock one by pulling the trigger with the lever opened and slowly lower the block. Mine isn't at nice as the ones SDH builds but it handles and fits better than any other rifle I own. It's also quite accurate, I've shot 1 1/2" 3 shot groups with it - at 300yds......................DJ ....Remember that this is all supposed to be for fun!.................. | |||
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SDH - so if I order I can have Dakota ship the rifle to you for the new firing pin and to reshape the safety if needed? Doug | |||
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So if my 5++ serial number Model 10 has the old style they will replace it with the new style free of charge? As usual just my $.02 Paul K | |||
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My Model 10 SN#3++ came with instructions for dry firing. It said to prevent damage to firing pin when dry firing to open the lever just slightly them pull the trigger. Never had a problem. It is a wonderful trim light rifle in 7x57 with special selection French Walnut. Last deer killed it it was by my at the time future son in law and I told him how much it cost and the condition I expected it to be returned to me. | |||
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Doug | |||
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Frankly, I would much rather start with a Gibbs-Farquharson or a Martini-Hagn action as the basis for a best quality, falling block, single shot custom rifle. The Gibbs-Farquharson is the best, and the Martini-Hagn might be even better. I have a nice ca. 1880 Gibbs-Farquharson - originally a .461 Gibbs No. 1 military rifle - that was rebarreled in .275 Flanged (a/k/a 7x57R) and beautifully worked over by Mark Penrod, re-stocked by Paul Hodgins and engraved by Ralph Bone. I was lucky enough to pick that rifle up for less than half what it cost the original owner to build, and I will die owning it. I am trying to decide what I would do with a Martini-Hagn, but it's awfully hard to figure out how to justify it, since I can't think of anything that I really "need." Still, if I were intent upon owning a Dakota Model 10, I would have to have SDH build it. Steve, your lever modification is perfect. Plus, with the firing pin fix, and other custom touches, it just might make the grade. Mike Wilderness is my cathedral, and hunting is my prayer. | |||
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