I've had this pistol for a while, but since it was very nicely engraved, it has just sat in my safe. I decided I'd take it out, sight it in, and shoot a deer with it this fall. When I bought it, used, I took it over to a gunsmith at that show who did a trigger job on it. It may have made it a bit better, but it still ain't great.

However.....I am a VERY slow trigger squeezer when I am sighting in.....several times, but not always, and I can't necessarily make it repeat.....the hammer would fall about a quarter way.....and stop or hang up, take your pick. If I pulled a bit more, it would fire, or I could reach up and re-cock it. I know this has to be related to the transfer bar system, which I am not that conversant with. Anyone tell me what I need to trim, file, replace etc. BTW, the gun shot poorly with the 3 types of loads I tried in it. I was unhappy there as well. The outside is very pretty, but the inside is not up to par apparently. Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.

OTOH, a Performance Center Smith 44 mag shot 200 gr Barnes XPBs into less than 2 inches at 50 yards so that was nice, which is probably as good as I can hold using the poor rests that I was using. I'd tried them with a lower powder charge in another Ruger the day before and they shot very poorly. I was happy to find a load/gun they worked in.

I believe I go trade it off on a S&W 29 preferable an old one. The 29 is soing to be in the 600 range and the redhawk half of that, but by the time you're done paying a decent smith to go over the whole thing it's probably a tradeoff, and with the 29 you've got something decent

Butchloc:

The new 29s from the Performance Center are the best 29s ever made. Old ones are not nearly as good, although, as in anything, there are exceptions to most broad statements. Second, I've got more 29s than I know what to do with now, I like them but facts is facts. Third, a Redhawk will keep shooting heavy loads long after a Smith has to be sent back to be reworked. Not that I'm a big fan of heavy loads, but the Smiths are relatively delicate in that regard.

Finally, I can and will fix this trigger myself. It ain't rocket science and I've done a lot of trigger work over the years, just not that much on transfer bar triggers. I was hoping someone would know what is causing it, but I'll take it apart and figure it out before long.

Gatogordo:

I'm no expert on Ruger handguns, but I do have some experience with S&W's.

I don't believe this has anything to do with the transfer bar, but related to the triggerpull adjustment made by your gunsmith. If the trigger is made too dull(lightened trigger pull) it will bind when pulled too slowly. My assumption (and that's all it is) is that the trigger should be sharpened a bit. I've never seen a really good pull on a Ruger. They are all creepy.

Good luck.

Due to a lighter mainspring which doubles as the trigger return spring, and possible reduced sear engagement at the hammer notch to reduce creep, the trigger is not moving enough to get out from under the double action sear on the hammer.Hammer comes forward,double action sear hits top of trigger and hammer stops.To cure first replace mainspring with factory new unit.May also have to replace hammer but mainspring alone may do it.

Much appreciation and thanks for both of the above replies. I'll take it apart and look at it.