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Making flatpoint bullets
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<Hutt>
posted
I have a late model marlin lever in 218Bee and dont have a lot of choices for flat point bullets.What I am considering is taking a sizing die and cutting it down enough so that the points of readily availible .224 dia. bullets(cheap fmj's) can be filed down to work safely in a tube magazine,something like the Hanned SGB bullet maker used for 22lr. Any ideas are welcome.

[This message has been edited by Hutt (edited 01-25-2002).]

 
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<Daryl Elder>
posted
Hutt, I ran into sort of the same problem recently with my Marlin .45-70 and RN bullets. I took an old wood chisel and just sliced the tip off flat above the jacket. Seemed to work OK! Easier than cleaning a file, etc.. I seated the bullets first so that I had more purchase. A sharp knife would probably do as well. FWIW.
 
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Hmmm,,,,, I am sure you have a drill, or better yet a drill press. An 8 or 9 in. is only about 90 dollars.
Find a piece of aluminum, or real hard wood, clamp it down of the table; drill a whole that fits the bullet snuggly. Insert a bullet, and drill the top off. I am sure you could refine this process fairly easily. You could just push the bullet through the bottom of the whole if you set it up correctly...
Just a thought,,

SCOUT>>>>

 
Posts: 2 | Location: Florida | Registered: 08 March 2003Reply With Quote
<Dale>
posted
I cut the tips of 250 gr. Speer bullets to use in my .350 Rem. I use side-cutters to clip the point of above the jacket, then file it down smooth to the jacket. The only one I recovered was from a black bear, and was a perfect mushroom. They are not quite as accurate as an unmodified bullet, but are adequate. I shortened the bullet so I could seat it out further. My rifle is a Rem. 700 short action, and the 250 gr. bullet is seated too deep when it will function through the magazine.
 
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Picture of Mark
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Rather than cutting down a sizing die I would first try just drilling a hole in a block of hardwood, maybe with a large drill to match the base of the brass which goes to 3/8" of the end, then using a 3/16" drill to finish. Shave it down until you have the proper amount showing then clamp it to the table of a bench mounted sander. You should be able to crank through the rounds in no time that way.

I don't think accuracy will be affected that much seeing as what you are using these for.

 
Posts: 7786 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000Reply With Quote
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Hutt, have you ever tried seating them backwards? I know it works but the ballistic coefficent goes in the toilet. I used to use the Winchester round nose 46 hornets in my model 43. It loved them and then they went and discontinued them. Remginton has a soft point but it is a bit too pointy.

I was just thinking of another method. It is easier for me because I have a reamer, but you could easily get a section of 223 barrel, Chamber it for the bee and then cut it off to the point it is appropriate. Put in a shell and press it against a stationary belt sander. You would need a stop so you don't end up grinding off the "die" each time.

Thinking...... how about coating a shell with mold release, inserting it in a piece of aluminum tubing with acraglass gel and building a chamber. Pull the casing out and grind down the front end until the proper amount of the bullet is exposed, or preferably a bit more. Set that up with a vee channel and a stop at right angles to the belt sander and then you will be grinding just the bullet protrusion and it will be square to the world.

Chic

[This message has been edited by Customstox (edited 01-25-2002).]

 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
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Sure, file the noses of fmj bullets,........and ruin your rife. Really! : ) If you do that the core can soot through the jacket and leave the jacket stuck in the bore. Fire the next cartridge and that is the end of that. Modify some soft points instead. Better yet check with "Dangerious Dave" that company has all sort of great obsolets ammo and reloading stuff.

quote:
Originally posted by Hutt:
I have a late model marlin lever in 218Bee and dont have a lot of choices for flat point bullets.What I am considering is taking a sizing die and cutting it down enough so that the points of readily availible .224 dia. bullets(cheap fmj's) can be filed down to work safely in a tube magazine,something like the Hanned SGB bullet maker used for 22lr. Any ideas are welcome.

[This message has been edited by Hutt (edited 01-25-2002).]


 
Posts: 813 | Location: Left Coast | Registered: 02 November 2000Reply With Quote
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Scot????????
The core is lead just like on a soft point. The metal jacket is copper just like on any other bullet and gets on the bore anyway when you fire it. That is why they make and sell a lot of bore cleaners.

Chic

 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
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Seems to me there was an article in the 2002 Gun Digest(?) about this. As I recall the author couldn't force an s.p. to fire the round in front of it in a tubular magazine.
Has anyone ever actually seen the results of such a mishap? I don't think I would try any fmj ap's in my 30-30 but I don't worry much about this problem with my 25-20.
C.G.B.
 
Posts: 238 | Location: Colorado | Registered: 05 June 2001Reply With Quote
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On one of the gun magazines last month(?) a writer was firelapping a rifle and one of the round(normal bullets coated with NECO) actually did that : Jacket stuck inside, lead core flied outside, gas leaks through the stuck jacket and cut/weld the inside of barrel like a torch.

The writer noticed something funny going on because that shot didn't "sound" right.

Now filing a bullet might give extra gap between jacket and the core, loosen it more.
I am not saying don't do it, just be careful.

 
Posts: 638 | Location: O Canada! | Registered: 21 December 2001Reply With Quote
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"The core is lead just like on a soft point."

No........ it is not. A FMJ bullet has an open base. A soft point has jacket over the base. If you file the nose off a FMJ you now have a copper tube with lead in the middle. You absolutely can shoot the core out and leave the jacket in the bore. Is your rifle worth risking over a couple of bucks more for better bullets.

[This message has been edited by scot (edited 01-26-2002).]

 
Posts: 813 | Location: Left Coast | Registered: 02 November 2000Reply With Quote
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Scot, you are saying the core will shoot out of the jacket. The "soot" threw me. I have never heard of that but trust it could happen. I thought you were talking about copper fouling. Damn typos.
 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
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Sorry.......

quote:
Originally posted by Customstox:
Scot, you are saying the core will shoot out of the jacket. The "soot" threw me. I have never heard of that but trust it could happen. I thought you were talking about copper fouling. Damn typos.

 
Posts: 813 | Location: Left Coast | Registered: 02 November 2000Reply With Quote
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Hey Hutt, For what it is worth, I agree 100% with scot's post - DO NOT file the tips off FMJs.

When the FMJs are formed, a lubricant is used on the jacket material to increase the speed of the manufacturing process and to reduce tool wear. No need to go to a lot of effort to remove the lube because of the "encapsulated" design. Plus, a cannelure is put in the jacket and generally the bottom is formed into a small Boat Tail. All of those things work together to hold the core in place.

But, as scot said, if you remove the tip you end up with a "tube" and it contains a "lubed" core. It might or might not hold it depending on the strength of your Load and your rifle's Bore condition, but it isn't worth the consequences "IF" the core separates and leaves the jacket in the barrel.

I just looked and you can get 1000 Rem 50gr PLHPs at www.wideners.com for $79. Be sure to get the "PLHP" design, cause it is VERY accurate. I've used them for a long time and shoot a WHOLE bunch of them each year. They are extremely accurate.

The latest issue of Handloader has a test going in a 22-250 Electronic Remington and these bullets shot as well as the Sierra's which is HIGH praise indeed.

------------------
Good hunting and clean 1-shot kills, Hot Core

 
Posts: 9920 | Location: Carolinas, USA | Registered: 22 April 2001Reply With Quote
<Hutt>
posted
Check out this site and give me your thoughts on it. http://www.hanned.com/cball3.html
 
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Hutt,
I think that you would be better off by ordering the Speer 46 gr flatpoint from Midway @ $9.79 per 100.
 
Posts: 694 | Location: Des Moines, Iowa, USA | Registered: 09 January 2001Reply With Quote
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Hutt, Black Hills has Remington PSP's for $60/1000. Use those to ship off and you will eliminate that problem that Scot alerted you to. Or send that pesky lever gun to me and I will keep you safe from harm and it can cosy up to my model 43. It will even save you money.

Chic

 
Posts: 4917 | Location: Wenatchee, WA, USA | Registered: 17 December 2001Reply With Quote
<Hutt>
posted
Ok,Ok I,ll give up the fmj idea....Any place I can get bulk flatpoints?
 
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Wonder if they have any snake oil??? These guys are selling hype to people who don't know any better. The die for convering ball ammo is plain dangerious. They will not be in business for long.

quote:
Originally posted by Hutt:
Check out this site and give me your thoughts on it. http://www.hanned.com/cball3.html

 
Posts: 813 | Location: Left Coast | Registered: 02 November 2000Reply With Quote
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P.O. Ackley played with this a bit and never had any problems with separations. In fact, as I recall, he couldn't make it happen. I think the info. is in vol. #2. I have had cores separate from jackets in properly loaded jacketed pistol bullets that were loaded to low velocities. The jackets stayed in the barrel and the core went down range. This is a quick way to wreck a barrel if you are not paying attention.
C.G.B.
 
Posts: 238 | Location: Colorado | Registered: 05 June 2001Reply With Quote
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