I'm learning. This is my 3rd checkering job.I am using hand tools. I am only working on my own guns.
The first 2 were birch stocks, and they turned out quite nice.I started out with Dembart tools, which seem a lot less aggressive than the Gunline cutters.
This stock I'm on now is a Boyds laminate. My gunsmith friend warned me that it would be tougher. But I can't do the easy stuff forever.
I did the first panel on the forend no problem. Turned out fine.
But this second panel is just killing me. I can't get any tool to make a straight line on this stuff. Even after I think I have a straight line, the next pass the guide jumps out for some reason and cuts a lint in the wrong place, just a light scratch. But that is enough for it to totally mess up what I am trying to do.
On the birch stocks, if I ran into a problem, I laid down a piece of tape in the grove to use as a straight guide, then leaned into file where necessary. Worked fine.
This stock is having none of that.
I have laid down yet another piece of tape and I am going to try so very carefully to get the file to stay put for the first pass. I don't know what else to do.
Any suggestions?

Hi--have you tried the tool from Brownells called-the jointer-it is a 1" long single line cutter- you can straighten out lines with it
Sydney

Thanks. The jointer is helping a lot. I bought one a while back and kind of forgot about it.
I'm still having to fight this stuff for every inch.I'm hoping it is just a bad spot and I will eventually work my way out of it.

I have found that dull(ed) cutters tend to wander off line more easily, is this perhaps your problem. Maybe you've dulled your cutters on the previous jobs - sometimes it doesn't take much, I've read that laminates are very hard on cutters--- John303.

Laminates are tougher on tools then solid wood due to the glue.
As stated you may have dull tools.

But a tip that I have is a strip of paper with tape on one side to lay out the master line once that is in place you can use masking tape to guide you.
But the biggest thing that helped me do a decent job is taking my time and walking away when needed. You need not be in a hurry when learning. it is the fastest way to screw up a stock.

How many lines per inch are you cutting? Laminates are not as friendly with fine checkering. I think 20 lines/in is about the max.

I'm not an expert or even an amateur but a while back I saw someone post that they used label making tape (like for a P-Touch label maker) for layout. It's a little thicker and stiffer than masking tape and provides a nice straight line.

Available at Office Depot or Office Max (or a jillion other places).

Agree on the joiner and need for sharp cutters.

Also make sure you are rotating the stock in the cradle to present it to your hand in it's natural cutting position. Dont try to wrap your self around the stock. Also concentrate on keeping your wrist locked.

The comment about the laminated stocks being harder on cutters is correct. I only use carbide cutters when laying out a pattern after the spacing. If it is the spacing giving you a problem go with the three line, or even the four line spacers. They will stay in the groove better.

One thing about the grip area that might be a concern of yours, the lines, according to the eye, are not straight. The master line should start out straight but if they follow a curve,
they will appear to be curving which is natural. The thing to be sure of is if the lines are parallel to one another; not necessarily straight, but parallel.

Another tip that may help. Watch the direction of the cut; I like to call it, "cutting down-hill". The guide line cutter teeth should be on the "uphill" side of the cut. If your lead cutter edge is cutting before the guide teeth, this will cause it to jump out of the cut.

Thanks for the suggestions.
I am positive now that I am hitting patches of hard stuff.
If I am cutting "on the uphill" the blades jump out and go skidding across the hard surface.

Matters are made worse if I am not going extra slow.

My blades are pretty new and pretty sharp. I honestly don't know how long they should last before they need to be replaced. But I will certainly consider carbide.

16 lpi for now.

Use some super glue that has water viscosity and soak the area you are checkering. It will make the density more uniform. And if you are pushing the cutter (going uphill ?), then remove the cutter and insert it in the handle so you are pulling instead of pushing.

quote:

Originally posted by Customstox:
Use some super glue that has water viscosity and soak the area you are checkering. It will make the density more uniform. And if you are pushing the cutter (going uphill ?), then remove the cutter and insert it in the handle so you are pulling instead of pushing.

I was going to ask about this. The cutters are only supposed to cut one way, right? It should be self evident when using the cutter.
But you say a pull cut is better than a push cut? Do you have trouble seeing where you are going?

quote:

Originally posted by frank4570:

quote:

Originally posted by Customstox:
Use some super glue that has water viscosity and soak the area you are checkering. It will make the density more uniform. And if you are pushing the cutter (going uphill ?), then remove the cutter and insert it in the handle so you are pulling instead of pushing.

I was going to ask about this. The cutters are only supposed to cut one way, right? It should be self evident when using the cutter.
But you say a pull cut is better than a push cut? Do you have trouble seeing where you are going?

I use the Brownell "full view" handles. They let you see fore and aft of the cut.

I would get away from the 16 lpi and go to 20 lpi. Are you using a dark room and with one light to the right side for shadows if you are right handed? You may need to have new glasses for close up work.

Here are a couple of things that will help. Get the W.E. Brownnell checkering handles. First check the tool to see if the cutting is inline with the center line of the tool and adjust the angle of the cutters front to rear for best cutting on the wood. I make a few passes with the new tool on a flat board and see if is tracking straight. I have found that a slight amount of angle on the cutter makes it ride to one side. Bend as needed. I make longer handles for my own tools. A longer tool allows for a slight amount of angle change at the cutter end. The same applies to screw drivers as well.

Dembart tools only last about 1 to 2 stocks. Spend the extra money and get the carbide V cutters in a long and short. The long cutter is all you need to run a straight line. All my spacing is done with the MMC power tool which is carbide. The hand spacing tools are OK if you get the W.E. Brownell's cutters. You can sharpen these cutters when dull with an EZE LAP medium diamond hone from Brownell's. Remove the steel plate from the plastic handle. Touch up between the cutting edges as they are 90 degrees to the bottom line.

These are just a few things which I have learned from 53 yrs. of checkering. Hope it helps!!

quote:

W.E. Brownnell checkering handles

I have 2 of the Brownells EZ view handles. I actually was trying one last night.
The reason I have stayed away from them is that the short handle makes them a lot less forgiving of incorrect angles.
I also tried the gunline blades again. Not perfect for this particular stock. The cut very narrow and very deep like a razor blade, compared to the dembart cutters.
I am making notes of all the info on this thread.
Much appreciated.

I'm going to order some more tools. I think mine are dulling quickly on this laminate, though I am getting the job done.
I dropped by my gunsmith friend today to get him to modify my cradle. He said the work I am doing looks fine so far, I can see small mistakes. He says they wouldn't be noticed.
Anyway, I guess I will buy some carbide cutters from Brownells. A 5/8 and a 3/16. And maybe pick up some more full view handles.
So,the other cutters are for the lay out, the carbide is for cutting AFTER the pattern is put down. Is that right?
Because I didn't see carbide cutters with guides and spacers and all that. Just the single line cutter.

Carbide is the only way to go for checkering cutters. I only do one checkering job per year---it takes that long to forget what agony I went through on the last job. Pull cutters are good for the ends of the pattern, to stop runovers.

Watch the very first part of this video of a lady at Beretta... she's damn good.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fl9n2OexV34