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I have rebarreled a dozen or so Mausers. There are lots of instructions for doing that. Can't find anything about a classic Win 70. Have some dimensions. How do you measure the tenon length? After threading do you cut the cone or chamber? I guess I will have to buy the extractor cutter or use a smaller cutter and sneak up on the width. Any thoughts or help? Thanks | ||
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Make it like the old barrel. Tenon length is not critical; mine are longer than factory. Cut the cone first. I lathe bore the cones at the correct angle which I forgot but it is marked on my lathe. Extractor cut; I mill with a Woodruff cutter. It is flat, not radiused but they work. I also cut the cone to bolt lug clearance much tighter than on factory rifles; their clearance is huge. | |||
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Bill Hinnant wrote a book on barreling actions and runs through coned breeches. It has lots of illustrations. Might be worth a look: https://www.amazon.com/Complet...itting/dp/B001TOJTDA Steve | |||
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I just filed the extractor cut. Dave | |||
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Steve, thanks. I had never seen this book before. Ordered it from Bill Hinnant thru Amazon. | |||
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According to the NRA Gunsmithing handbook, the tenon length is .928" x 1" OD. Pretty straightforward and the cone is 98deg off the horizontal. These have worked well for me One step of caution, you don't want to cut the extractor slot without aligning it with the receiver. You need to torque the barrel to the receiver and then mark it, remove it and then cut the slot. I have two cutters, one from Dave Manson and one from JGS that cuts the slot just like the OEM model 70's. Jim Kobe 10841 Oxborough Ave So Bloomington MN 55437 952.884.6031 Professional member American Custom Gunmakers Guild | |||
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Right, fit the whole thing without the extractor in place and do what Jim said. | |||
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Thanks guys, I'll give it a go when the barrel shows up. | |||
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I'm with you...can't be bothered setting up the mill (over mechanizing, I call it)..I use a hacksaw to remove the bulk of material | |||
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This thread prompted me to think about when people buy a model 70 take-off bbl and and want to put it on a another model 70. Does the extractor cut line up close enough? or do threads have to be removed and have it re-cut? For that matter what if it has sight? are the threads cut precise enough that the sights would be TDC or does the bbl need to be re-timed? Mike Legistine actu quod scripsi? Never under estimate the internet community's ability to reply to your post with their personal rant about their tangentially related, single occurrence issue. What I have learned on AR, since 2001: 1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken. 2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps. 3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges. 4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down. 5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine. 6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle. 7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions. 8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA. 9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not. 10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact. 11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores. 12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence. 13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances. | |||
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A friend used a heavy-duty Makita die grinder and a cut-off wheel. It worked real well. I usually use an end mill in the lathe and a Palmgren milling attachment. In the end, it doesn't matter how it's accomplished; it's the result that counts. By the way, be sure the extractor does not contact the cut at all when the bolt is closed. A little clearance everywhere is good. Regards, Bill. | |||
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Mike, Per one of the other attendees at Trinidad and per the guy who bought one of my take-off barrels in maybe 2011 or so, later Model 70's are awfully consistent and take-off barrel's did time to another (untrued/un-adjusted/smithed) receiver. I had trouble with mis-aligned scope mount holes, 3 position safeties, and crooked barrel on a few model 70's produced right before they shut down production in New Haven, so I was skeptical. Plus I'd think most folks would want to true the front of the receiver ring if they were re-barreling. | |||
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