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How difficult is it to Silver Solder?. I have been playing around with the idea of putting some sights on my 358 Norma project. Is this something a novice should attempt?.
 
Posts: 355 | Location: Anchorage, Alaska | Registered: 09 November 2001Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by efryman:
How difficult is it to Silver Solder?. I have been playing around with the idea of putting some sights on my 358 Norma project. Is this something a novice should attempt?.

Hi!

You�d better go with tin soldering, which doesn�t need that much heat as the Silver Solder.

Fritz
 
Posts: 846 | Location: Sweden | Registered: 19 April 2001Reply With Quote
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efryman,
I don't, but Silver Solder is used quite a bit on musical instruments and is VERY heat sensitive. Not enough and it dosn't bond correctly and too much and all sorts of bad things happen. Where you are going to put the sights, will excess tempature affect the material you are putting the sights on? (Barrel, Reciever) If yes, have someone else do this job or have them teach you on a play piece, practice quite a bit and maybe next project or a couple months down the line.
Hope this helps.

Greg
 
Posts: 1525 | Location: Hilliard Oh USA | Registered: 17 May 2002Reply With Quote
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I was planning on putting some express sight on the barrel. Didn't realize the high heat needed for silver solder. Will regular tin solder hold up?. Is that what is normally used. I just assumed the sight and barrel bands etc. was silver soldered on.
 
Posts: 355 | Location: Anchorage, Alaska | Registered: 09 November 2001Reply With Quote
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Picture of Fritz Kraut
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quote:
Originally posted by efryman:
I was planning on putting some express sight on the barrel. Didn't realize the high heat needed for silver solder. Will regular tin solder hold up?. Is that what is normally used. I just assumed the sight and barrel bands etc. was silver soldered on.

Hi!

If the surfaces are in close contact, tin solder is strong enough. Husqvarna and other factories used on their .358 Norma rifles.

Use a tin and lead alloy 60/40, as pure tin can be affected by blueing. If you with Silver Solder mean that tin solder with 1 % silver used by plumbers for household waterpipes, it may be OK. however, I don�t know if it will be affected by blueing. But regular silver solder needs red heat for flowing, which IMHO is too hot. Tin solder melts at 220 - 260 centigrades, silver solder needs at least 600 centigrades. (I�m sorry, I can�t convert into Fahrenheits.)

The preparatory work with the surfaces is the most important point at the work. The tighter the fit, the better it fastens. Consider a banded ramp for the front sight - it also has a classy look.

Good luck!

Fritz
 
Posts: 846 | Location: Sweden | Registered: 19 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Brownell's sells a high strength low temp solder that works very well. It is not as strong as silver solder but it is usually strong enough.
I have used it on several barrel bands and have never had one come unstuck. Most silver solders require low red heat to properly bond. This can do bad things to heat-treated parts. With the proper heat blocking and anti-scaling you can do front sights but it is a bit of a chore.
Hope this helps.
C.G.B.
 
Posts: 238 | Location: Colorado | Registered: 05 June 2001Reply With Quote
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